174 Notes of a Journey in Peru. 



named pueblo is one day, but has many mal-pasos, three of 

 which are dangerous, and require not a little skill and exer- 

 tion to avoid being carried from one side of the river to the 

 other, and swamped in the eddies of the rapid, or dashed 

 to pieces against the rocks. At Sion w r e took a fresh canoe, 

 with seven hands, as at a short distance below is a bad pass, 

 called Savalayacu, where it is necessary to unload the canoe, 

 and drag it for some distance to near the edge of the rapid. 

 The Indians then enter the canoe, and with all force descend ; 

 paddle for the centre of the rapid, and in an instant are below 

 it with the force of the stream ; and reload below the rocks. 

 From Sion to Lupuna is but one day : but, as the delay of 

 passing Savalayacu was considerable, we slept at a small 

 settlement called Balsayacquilla : thence the river widens, 

 and is less rapid. Lupuna is situated at the junction of the 

 river Huayabamba, which is also navigable for canoes for 

 some distance towards the Cordillera. From Lupuna to 

 Juan Guerra, on the river Myobamba, is two days : this 

 distance the river is magnificent, in some parts 9 or 10 miles 

 wide, and full of large islands : in some parts the hills ap- 

 proach close to the river, but are not so high as those to the 

 southward. The voyage may be performed in the time stated 

 from each pueblo; but, as my object was not speed, I stopped 

 at various places to collect as much as I could manage to 

 preserve. 



The forests along the river abound *in monkeys and birds : 

 of the latter, two species of turkey, one of pheasant, and some 

 partridges, not only in beauty but in flavour, are superior .to 

 any thing we have in Europe. The ears of the Indians are 

 continually on the alert to catch the least sound of the voice 

 of a monkey or huangana (the peccary) ; which, when once 

 heard, they are all on shore in an instant with their serra- 

 batan (a hollow tube through which they blow a small reed 

 tipped with poison) ; and so sure and fatal is their aim, that 

 we were well supplied with roast and stewed monkey during 

 the journey. The villages south of Lupuna were formerly 

 called the Missiones altos del Huallaga, and had curates, or 

 missionaries; but" at present they are left entirely to themselves, 

 and daily decreasing, and becoming worse than before they 

 were converted. From Lupuna northward to this place the 

 people are far superior, more industrious, and rapidly in- 

 creasing in number. At Tarapota, and here, they are under 

 the care of two very excellent men. At Tarapota, one of the 

 old missionaries, the Fray Don Eusabio Arias, a most worthy 

 and exemplary character, has been 28 years in these parts, 

 and has composed a grammar and vocabulary of two of the 



