1 30 Rough Notes of a Tour to the Lakes. 



hahV. On arrivinf^ at the highest point we had dismissed our 

 guide, he having first pointed out to us the direction of Kes- 

 wick ; and now we heard his sepulchral cries far below us, 

 sounding through the mist, as though they came from an 

 inhabitant of some other world, and reechoed again and again 

 by the surrounding mountains. The clouds, which had pre- 

 viously bounded our horizon, now cleared away as if by 

 magic, and opened to us here and there the most superb and 

 distant glimpses. At one moment we could distinctly see 

 Ulswater, all bright and sunny; at another, Thirlmere, and 

 part of Bassenthwaite Water : this sort of enchantment lasted 

 but for a few seconds, and the next all was again dark, cold, 

 and gloomy as before. I was very anxious to meet with the 

 nest and eggs of the dotterel [Charadrius Morinellus], which I 

 was informed had been found here, but we only saw the bird 

 as it was wheeling round us in the fog. I took, in climbing 

 the mountain, six species of the genus Carabus in abundance, 

 namely, glabratus, cancellatus, hortensis, arvensis, catenulatus, 

 and violaceus. We had seen all we could, and therefore be- 

 gan our descent towards Keswick. The ascent of the moun- 

 tain, on the western side, is very easy, and gives any one but 

 a poor idea of the grandeur of Helvellyn. We made our way 

 in the direction of Thirlmere, and penetrating the cloud, which 

 only capped the mountain, we were soon gladdened and 

 warmed by the sun's rays. Thirlmere is a pretty little lake, 

 and very narrow in the middle, where it is crossed by a bridge. 

 Before approaching very near to it, you gain the road to Kes- 

 wick ; and, whilst quenching our thirst at the little " honest 

 alehouse " at the foot of the mountain, the Lake Tourist 

 coach passed us. This day's march was concluded by a five 

 miles' walk to Keswick, the near approach to which is very 

 imposing. Descending into the town, you catch a full view of 

 Derwentwater, and its wooded banks and islands, backed by 

 lofty mountains on your left; whilst the tamer scenery of Bas- 

 senthwaite, connected with them by a flat cultivated plain, and 

 Skiddaw rising high over all, bound your prospect to the 

 right. We took up our quarters in the travellers' room of 

 the Royal Oak Inn, and having made all the toilet our 

 knapsacks would allow, and refreshed ourselves by a plen- 

 teous potation of tea, we sallied forth to explore the town 

 and neighbourhood. Our first enquiry was for the residence 

 of the poet laureate, and we had pointed out to us a house 

 exhibiting as little of taste, or of the picturesque, as you can 

 well imagine. In passing through the street, we were annoyed 

 by a host of idle lounging fellows, yclept guides and boat- 

 men; a set of scoundrels, who drink all summer, and live 



