NOTES ON AMERICA. 279 



repeatedly witnessed storms at sea, and was once lashed to the mizen 

 mast, that I might enjoy one in perfection : but the effect which I saw 

 produced by a hurricane, accompanied by thunder and lightning, in a 

 forest of pines, far exceeded in terrific grandeur any thing I ever beheld 

 on the ocean. The distant howling of the tempest came fearfully upon 

 the ear for some time before it reached the spot, where, with my arm 

 on my horse's neck, I stood in awful expectation of its approach ; pre- 

 sently afterwards came the crashing of the trees, which were struck by 

 the lightning or uprooted by the fury of the wind. One of the loftiest 

 of the pines fell across the road about three yards in front of me. My 

 horse remained perfectly quiet till all was over, and the storm rushing 

 past us, pursued its terrific course in our rear. The whole scene, which 

 I have attempted thus briefly to describe, was so strikingly grand, and 

 the rage of the elements was so soon succeeded by a complete calm, that 

 all sense of personal danger was deadened, till the cause of it had ceased 

 to exist and I recommenced threading my way through the woods in 

 thoughtful silence. 



In the interior of Georgia and the Carolinas, the methodists are the 

 most prevailing sect, but the neglect of religious observances is palpable 

 throughout a great part of the southern states. In many populous towns 

 and districts, no consecrated place of worship can be found, though the 

 court-house, or town-hall, is occasionally converted into a chapel, where 

 the most revolting nonsense is delivered by some itinerant pretender to 

 the priestly office. I have sometimes, with a view to ascertain what 

 description of persons composed the congregation, attended these meet- 

 ings ; and have more than once discovered that the preacher and myself 

 were the only male persons present ; though the more gallant of the 

 gentlemen have waited outside the door to escort their \vives and 

 daughters home. In this respect, the southerners come into very dis- 

 advantageous contrast with their fellow-citizens of the northern and 

 eastern States, where every hamlet possesses a sincere, though it may be 

 narrow-minded pastor. The sabbath, however, is generally so far 

 observed in the interior of the southern States, that the stores are closed, 

 and the field negroes are released from their labours. But the taverns 

 are filled during the whole of the day by a set of noisy and intemperate 

 wretched beings, who pass their time in drinking, smoking, playing at 

 chequers, or draughts, and talking furiously democratic politics. In fact, 

 a traveller is fortunate if he avoids insult and injury from these des- 

 peradoes, and can contrive to escape in peace and safety to the dreary 

 plains, and far spreading forests, with wild deer and Indians for his 

 companions arid guides. 



The unfavourable character which I have given above, of the villages 

 in the slave-holding states, was suggested more particularly by the re- 

 membrance of a brief sojourn at a little place called Chester, in South 

 Carolina, the desagremens of which were rendered more striking and 

 offensive, by the contrast afforded soon after, in the accommodation I 

 received at a solitary cottage in the woods, where I stopped to learn my 

 route, and to procure refreshment. I arrived in the evening, and found 

 the family, consisting of the owner of the place, his daughter, and two 

 negroes, at their devotions. I was struck with the quiet and dignified 

 exterior of the master, and still more by his reserve and sil nee. He 

 was evidently an Englishman j and the florid complexion and laughing 

 eyes of the young lady, proved, beyond doubt, that she had only lately 



