58 Goethe's Visit to Beireis. [JAN. 



clump of trees, which, at no great distance, rose venerable, decorating 

 the plain. It overshaded Kloster Bergen ; a spot that called up many 

 recollections. There had Wieland, in all the concentrated enthusiasm of 

 young feelings, taken up his abode, and laid the foundation of higher 

 literary culture ; there laboured the Abbot Steinmetz, in pious spirit, 

 narrow, perhaps, yet honest and strong ; and doubtless the world, in its 

 narrow impiety, requires such light-and-heat fountains, if it is not, in 

 its egoistic labyrinth of error, wholly to languish and freeze. 



On repeated visits to the cathedral, we observed a lively Frenchman, 

 in clerical garb, who, as the sacristan led him round, conversed aloud 

 with his companions ; while we, as used to the place, followed our silent 

 aims. We learned that it was the Abbe Gregoire ; but though I was 

 anxious enough to make up to him, and commence some acquaintance, 

 my friend, out of dislike to the Gauls, would not agree ; and we had to 

 content ourselves, occupied at some distance, with noting his manner, 

 and catching his judgments, which he emitted in a loud voice. 



We pursued our journey ; and as the transition from one river-district 

 into another, was always a chief object with me, the geognost, I could 

 not but remark the sand-stone heights, which now indicated the change 

 from the Elbe to the Weser. Helmstadt lies quite kindly ; the sand 

 there, a small river flowing through it, is tamed down by gardens, and 

 other graceful bordering. Whoever does not bring with him the notion 

 of an active German college, will be agreeably surprised to find, in such 

 a position, one of our older establishments for learning, where, on the 

 basis and funds of an ancient monastic institution, professorships of 

 modern sort have been founded; where handsome incomings offer a 

 pleasant abode ; and old, spacious edifices give space for a dignified 

 household, considerable libraries, valuable cabinets ; and a quiet diligence 

 can work the more actively in literary labour, as the small number of 

 students demands not that haste of communication which, in frequented 

 academies, is apt to confuse us. 



The corps of professors was, in all senses, important. I have but to 

 mention the names of Henke, Pott, Lichtenstein, Crell, Brown, and 

 Bredow, that every one may estimate the circle where we travellers 

 now found ourselves. Solid learning, willingness to impart ; cheerful- 

 ness of intercourse, kept up by eager, studious youth ; light mirthful- 

 ness, with earnest, well-considered employment ; all this worked softly 

 together : wherewith also the women co-operated ; the elderly by 

 domestic hospitality, younger wives with courteous grace, daughters in 

 all loveliness ; the whole seeming only to belong to one family. The 

 large apartments of antique houses admitted great assemblages, and festi- 

 vities the best attended. 



At one of these, the difference between my friend and me again became 

 manifest. On occasion of a splendid supper-party, two beautifully plaited 

 garlands had been appointed for us strangers : the fair creature that put 

 mine on me I had thanked with a kindly-returned kiss ; and in my vanity 

 felt pleasure as I fancied I could read in her eyes, that, so adorned, I 

 did not displease her. Meanwhile, right opposite, the self-willed guest 

 was struggling against his b'vely patroness with all obstinacy ; and if 

 the garland, in such tugging and twisting, did not utterly go to wreck, 

 yet must the poor girl retire somewhat abashed, that she was not able to 

 get quit of it. 



Amid so many pleasant things, we might almost have forgotten the 

 object which had brought us hither. However, Beireis himself enlivened. 



