1832.] Notes on America. 645 



breathless clerk arrived to apologize for the mistake, and prolong the old 



Frenchman's existence. I believe that MrR ' was quite singular 



among his countrymen in his indifference to life, and determination to quit 

 it prematurely, under any circumstances. For the most part, the national 

 gaiety of spirit prevailed among these kind hearted exiles, in whose com- 

 pany I have passed many amusing hours. 



One of the most striking and amusing scenes in the world may be 

 witnessed upon a Charleston race course. I remember being present at 

 the running of a famous match between two horses from Virginia, and 

 one belonging to South Carolina. The two first heats were gained, one 

 each, by the Virginian horses, and the two last by the favourite of South 

 Carolina, whose name I recollect was Bertram. The interest always 

 attendant upon a good horse race, was increased to intensity by the feel- 

 ing of state rivalry prevalent all over the union/ and which is called forth 

 in all its strength on such occasions. Many a dirk was grasped, and 

 fierce threat uttered. At last the South Carolina horse came up victori- 

 ous, and the scenes which followed recalled to my mind Gibbon's account 

 of the Blue and Green factions of Constantinople, when the triumph of a 

 political party depended upon the speed of a horse. Ever since, the horse 

 races in England have appeared to me to be very tame affairs indeed. I 

 was in New York at the time of the match between Henry and Eclipse, 

 between the north and south, which is well remembered by many as evi~ 

 dencing the existence of a spirit of rivalry by no means favourable to the 

 future permanence of the federal union. But to dilate upon the topic 

 suggested by the last remark is not my intention at least not at present. 

 It is of too serious a nature to be discussed in the cursory and rambling 

 style in which these sketches have been thrown together. 



lam inclined to think that some of the best society in the United States 

 is to be met with in Charleston. Most of the neighbouring gentry or 

 planters have travelled in Europe, and many have been partially edu- 

 cated abroad. They are well informed, hospitable and polite. In other 

 parts of the union, it seems to be a matter of conscience to introduce sub- 

 jects of conversation, which must necessarily be disagreeable to the 

 Englishmen present. The battle on Lake Erie, and the affair at New 

 Oilcans, frequently form the subjects of discourse. But there is a high 

 degree of polish, as well as spirit, in the courteous demeanour of a South 

 Carolinian gentleman. I fear that this must partly be attributed to the 

 practice of duelling which is common among them. When an insulting 

 expression can only be used at the risk of a man's life, he soon learns to 

 be sparing of them. 



Kean performed twelve nights in Charleston during the winter, I think, 

 of 1825 and 1826. The theatre is small but elegant, and the price of 

 admission to the pit is the same as to the boxes. By this arrangement, 

 those who can best appreciate good acting, have an opportunity of seeing 

 it from the best quarter of the house. 



I have witnessed Kean's performance in London, and the English 

 country towns, and in various parts of the United States, but in my 

 humble judgment, there was more real feeling of the beauties of the 

 author, and just discrimination in estimating the actor, displayed in 

 Charleston, than at any other theatre where I have had an opportunity of 

 seeing Shakespeare performed. This was peculiarly to be remarked at 

 the representation of Hamlet and Macbeth. I very much doubt whether 



