672 The Poriote Doctor. [JUNE 



man Jon-Brown, Mrs. Alderman Jon-Brown, and Miss Alderman Jon- 

 Brown, magnates of the aforementioned city of Bristol. To the urbanity 

 of Papa Clement was added a more sterling quality. He was an excellent 

 cook, a vocation in the exercise of which Papa Clement never had an 

 equal, for cooks in general will draw largely upon the commissariat, whereas 

 Papa Clement, like the monk who made stone broth, went to work upon 

 nothing, and nevertheless produced invariably a good repast. He had fol- 

 lowed the steps of Napoleon to Moscow and back, and had fought in his 

 last field. Such had been his lot after the restoration, that he found the 

 nominal pay of forty piastres a month, as captain in the 2nd battalion of 

 the regulars, and the real Yemeklik of seventeen paras per diem, (about 

 three-halfpence,) a considerable improvement in his circumstances. 



The next in order was a light-haired, blue-eyed, broad-faced, ruddy- 

 cheeked, Bavarian. His dress was that of an officer of the Tactikoi, but he 

 had lain aside the cumbrous chacot for the light crimson Barbary cap, 

 always worn by the Greeks. On either thigh was suspended one of his 

 national weapons ; on the left the schlaeger : and on the right the formidable 

 boar-knife, with a buck-horn haft that would have fitted the fist of a giant. 

 There were two Portuguese, an Italian, a Pole, and a Corsican, none of 

 whom were particularised by any marked peculiarities, beyond those of 

 their respective nations. 



The hot sun beat fiercely down upon us as we lay becalmed for several 

 hours in the beautiful Gulph of Napoli ; even old Taygetus seemed to drop 

 a portion of his snowy mantle as the day advanced. At length came the 

 short-lived twilight of the east, and with it the off-shore breeze bearing on 

 its wings the aroma of a thousand herbs. Who that has not visited an 

 Eastern clime can tell the delight with which this portion of the day is 

 welcomed. The moody Mussulman takes his solitary walk where the 

 melancholy cypress throws its dark mantle over the ashes of his fathers j 

 there, on some turban stone, he sits enjoying bright visions of his promised 

 paradise, till the loud " Allah ackbar," of the Muezzin from the neighbour- 

 ing mosque reminds him of the hour of prayer. The light-hearted Greek 

 flings his capote across his shoulder, and with a gay elastic step he seeks 

 the most public promenade of the eity. He hears and tells the news ; he 

 exchanges his own inventions of the day for those of others. 



We arrived at Poros too late to continue our journey thence to Damala 

 the same evening, and were consequently obliged to take up our abode in 

 a Kaphene'. The ground- floor consisted of a single room, one end of 

 which was occupied by hogsheads of wine, faggots, charcoal, and all the 

 " materiel " of a Greek coffee-house keeper ; round the other end ran a low 

 wooden bench, whereon were seafed two or three grave looking elderly 

 Greeks, smoking their arquilas or water pipes, and sipping their coffee in 

 silence. The revolution has not yet effected any change in the olden 

 Greeks, whose habits and manners are formed on those of the Turks. In 

 the centre of the room on a pillar of sun-baked clay, about three feet high, 

 stood a well polished Mangal a brazier, containing ignited charcoal, at 

 which the coffee is made, and other culinary operations performed. The 

 floor was of mud, the ceiling of dried myrtle bushes, laid thickly over 

 rafters of roughly torn pine, and on the bushes again a layer of mud, 

 forming the floor of an upper apartment, which was only half the size of 

 the lower one, the remainder of the roof being dignified with the name of 

 a terrace, on which in the summer heats the natives are accustomed to 

 sleep. The ascent to this upper story was of the rudest description, u being 



