VISIT TO THE CAPOUDAN PACHA. 409 



same advantages, is a thousand times before it. The " Al hakim 

 salam," which may be translated " peace be with thee," is never used 

 but to the faithful. If a Turk salute a Frank, it is " Sabahnes hie- 

 rolsun," (good morning,) or " Akshamnes, hierolsun," (good even- 

 ing,) as the case may be. 



The water-carrier filled his bottle, and imitating the example of 

 my friend the Hamal, sat down to his pipe. They then entered into 

 the most friendly communion together, in the course of which the 

 saccal reproached his friend for doing any service at all to a Frank. 

 " Wait a while/' quoth the latter, " I carried the Giaour's accursed 

 sanduki with my left hand." * " That," interrupted I, " is the reason 

 you found it so heavy." Upon which the saccal interfered, and after 

 lifting the trunk, began to revile me for placing on the shoulders 

 of a Mussulman a. load only fit for the back of a camel. 



" Allah is great," said he, " but he is gracious ; I wonder Moustapha 

 is not dead. I advise him to go to the Cadhi and see if he will allow 

 a Frank dog thus to treat a greenhead !"f for Moustapha pretended 

 to the green turban, for which, in all probability, he got well thrashed 

 every time he met another greenhead either stronger or richer than 

 himself. 



Heaven knows how this controversy might have ended, had it not 

 been for the arrival of an individual of an anomalous appearance, 

 who immediately addressed himself to me in the following terms : 

 " Nom de Dieu ! what has brought you to Constantinople?" 



It was not without some difficulty that I recognized my friend 



Captain S of the Greek regulars, clad as he then was in the 



costume of the Nizam djedidrj a large red cloak reaching from his 

 neck to his ankles ; blue jacket braided with silver ; blue pantaloons 

 tight to the knee, but very capacious upwards ; red morocco hessians ; 

 an Egyptian riding whip of Hippopotamus skin, and to crown all, a 

 red quilted caouk of the form and dimensions of a pint basin. " What 

 harlequinade is this," inquired I, (( and how comes it that you have 

 abandoned the cross for the crescent ?" " Oh," said he, " those 

 ungrateful scoundrels, the Greeks, would have starved me ; but here 

 I am, well paid, and generally speaking, well treated. I hold the 

 office of military instructor to the new troops in the household of the 

 Capoudan Pasha, qui, entre nous, est un imbecile ; but nevertheless, 

 the third subject in the empire ; and on state days is allowed the 

 honour of kissing the Sultan's slipper. But come," said he, " I see 

 you are just arrived. Moustapha take the gentleman's trunk to my 

 konak." 



Greenheaded Moustapha, to my utter astonishment, put both 



hands to the sanduki, and turning to Captain S exclaimed, " By 



my eyes," and darted off alertly. The water-carrier had already dis- 

 appeared. 



* This renders the service less odious in the eyes of Mahomed. 



j- An Emir ; wearing light green is the peculiar privilege of the descendants 

 of the prophet of which they are exceedingly jealous. It is not long since the 

 lady of an English ambassador was knocked and beaten by some Yenicheris, for 

 wearing a green veil. 



New institution. The regular troops of Sultan Mahmoiul are so called. 



M.M. No. 88. 2 Y 



