50 ANDALUSIAX SKETCHES-. 



sons and property of mercantile foreigners in Spain, operates against 

 speculators making any attempt to work the mines. 



The Baths of Manilba are about one mile and a half north from the 

 town. They are situate on the right bank of a rapid torrent, which, 

 confined, during the upper part of its course, to a deep rocky fissure, 

 here gains a more open country. A rugged mountain, however, con- 

 tinues to overhang it, and from this issue several medicinal springs, 

 the virtues of which it is averred were known to, and appreciated by, 

 the Romans ; indeed, it is certain that Caesar bathed there. The 

 country people invariably call the Baths f<r Las Hediondas," literally 

 " The Stinking Springs." The waters contain iron, hydrogen, arid 

 sulphur, in various proportions. They have some fame amongst the 

 Spaniards, and the spot is much resorted to during the summer and 

 autumn by real and fancied invalids. This has induced some capi- , 

 talists to build a few lodging huts, an inn, bath-houses, and of course 

 a chapel, dedicated to " Nueslra Senora de los Remedies" (our lady 

 of the cures}. 



On my arrival I found collected a number of families and persons 

 of all classes, chiefly from the towns in Andalusia. I established 

 myself at the inn, where tolerable accommodation is to be had. The 

 neighbouring country is singularly wild and beautiful. I usually > 

 passed the mornings in exploring it. Partridges and quail were in J 

 abundance, and my gun thus procured for me ample occupation until ^ 

 the mid-day sun rendered it prudent to return homewards, where a * 

 tepid bath and a siesta put me in condition to enjoy a savoury and 

 well-cooked olla at the table d'hote of my inn. In the evenings I 

 joined the general assembly of all the visitors, which was in fact held 

 in the streets, under the vine-covered trellis- work, extending from 

 the opposite houses, and forming a delicious fragrant screen. There 

 the higher orders danced (waltzed), whilst those of inferior grade 

 grouped around to admire the graceful movements of " the gentry." 

 I generally, however, retired early from the gay scene, and returned 

 to my apartment at the inn, accompanied by a new acquaintance, 

 whose character and conversation afforded me no little amusement. 

 His name I learned to be Juan de Guzman, but he is only known 

 and spoken of as Tio Juan (uncle John). He was a tall, limping, 

 gossiping personage of about sixty, filling the responsible and digni- 

 fied situation of administrador (steward, warder, or keeper) of the 

 establishment. He is the physician, too, of the place, although cer- 

 tainly without pretension to be considered a regular member of the 

 healing art. Nevertheless, he boldly tells you on the very first day 

 of your arrival the spring best suited to your complaint, the exact 

 quantity of water your case requires that you should swallow, and 

 the number of minutes you must daily remain in a bath. After a 

 few days' residence he knows which pair of bright eyes in the 

 evening waltz has had the greatest attraction for you, and he will 

 whisper if the fair one has smiled or frowned whether the bouquet 

 of wild flowers exchanged betokened hope or disappointment. He 

 knew, or pretended to know and recollect, the family secrets of nearly 

 every person of consideration who had visited the baths for many past 

 years, and gave me numerous anecdotes of ladies who had arrived 



