246 VINES AND VINEYARDS. 



consumer fancy that he is chuckling to the praise of Messrs. Gordon's 

 doctoring. Then, to suit all customers with genuine sherry, we are 

 favoured with the following : 



" The lowest priced sherries are in general the growth of Port St. Mary's 

 or San Lucar, two districts within ten miles of Xeres ; or they are brought 

 round from Malaga to Port St. Mary's, and thence transhipped for England 

 under the name of sherry, perhaps after having been landed and mixed with 

 other wines to give them the qualities in which they are deficient. All 

 these low-priced wines are largely mixed with brandy, being intended for 

 the consumption of a class of people who are unable to judge of any quality 

 in wine but its strength. But brandy is added in very small proportions to 

 the good wines never in greater quantities than four or five per cent, 

 while they remain in the cellar, and frequently not at all, unless the wine 

 should become scuddy or mothery ; and thus the finest wines are frequently 

 entirely free from it; but, on their shipment, a small dose of brandy is con- 

 sidered absolutely necessary, even to fine wines, to make them bear the 

 voyage, as it is said ; but, in reality, because strength is one of the first 

 qualities looked for by the consumers." 



What with the original genius of the grower in putting these Xeres 

 wines together, the talent of amplification displayed by the importer 

 by the introduction of those of Port St. Mary and San Lucar in ad- 

 dition, and the mysterious processes to which they are subjected in 

 the cellars of the London merchants, we suspect that the people of 

 England know as little about the true flavour of sherry wine as a 

 Mongol Tartar does of Dublin stout. The detestable practice, like- 

 wise, of mixing such quantities of that truly poisonous stuff they call 

 brandy, is reprehensible, and is, moreover, a great mistake. However 

 strength might have recommended wines some years since, certainly 

 quality is now more appreciated ; and as the wine-merchants know 

 this, and do not stop the practice, it would seem that such delete- 

 rious mixture must be profitable to the trader. If such be the case, we 

 must continue to drink our fiery wines, since the health and enjoy- 

 ment of the consumer will weigh but little against the tradesman's 

 profit. 



Mr. James Gordon then takes our author and his friend to visit a 

 neighbouring estate belonging to Don Jacobo Gordon, who from his 

 bastard name would seem to be a sort of Spanish Scotchman. Among 

 remarks by the road-side, he tells us that it is not lawful in Andalusia 

 to enclose any corn-field ; but, that immediately the corn is off the land, 

 they become common property, and " every one who chooses may 

 send cattle and sheep upon them," a truly primitive way in the dis- 

 position of property ; but one, in which, we fear, the prejudices of 

 English landlords would interpose materially in its introduction on 

 our own soil. The travellers find Don Jacobo's workmen just assem- 

 bled at dinner, tf which consisted of a kind of cold soup, made from 

 water, with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and salads, scraped down, or 

 cut small/' rather small feeding this ; but, as they are paid well, it 

 is merely an affair of taste, and no business of ours. Mr. Busby tastes 

 here some of the boiled must used for colouring tvine. "It is as thick as 

 treacle, and resembled it in flavour ; but with a strong burned taste." 

 He visits many other plantations; but the system is very much 

 alike. Then at the vineyards of Don Pedro Domecq : 



