LETTERS FROM A CONTINENTAL TOURIST. 495 



Brienz), where we embarked in one of the flat-bottomed boats used 

 on these lakes; arid we were impelled by the exertions of three 

 sturdy rowers over the still surface of the water. No doubt the 

 shores of the lake of Brienz are very beautiful ; but the constant 

 repetition of the same scenery becomes at any rate to me it became 

 wearisome. We were, however, amply repaid for our pains at 

 the fall of the Giesbach which is formed by a succession of cascades 

 as though the river came down a gig-antic flight of stairs, and at each 

 descent it falls just far enough to break the uniformity of the column 

 of water without entirely dissipating it in spray : but here, as before, 

 it must not be forgotten that description and representation are utterly 

 inadequate to convey just ideas of the magnificence and beauty of 

 nature, though perhaps Turner might do something with the Gies- 

 bach. 



To arrive in view of that part of the waterfall which I have been 

 just describing, it is necessary to ascend a considerable part of the 

 height of the mountain, for the lower half of the Giesbach descends 

 by a tortuous route to the lake, and is only visible in parts and from 

 different positions. After indulging ourselves with a long view of 

 the cataract we returned to our pinnace and got under way for 

 Brienz which is about a league distant across the water. The rain 

 which had hitherto held off now began to thicken, and before we ar- 

 rived at the White Cross (our inn) it came down in torrents. We 

 were however soon safely housed and under cover, in as comfortable 

 an hotel as could be expected in such an out-of-the-way region as 

 Brienz. It was here for the first time that I met with any evidence 

 of the vaunted beauty of the Bernese, in the shape of two dark-eyed, 

 black-haired, cherry-cheeked, daughters of Eve, who discharged the 

 duties of chamber-maids. But these are the first two I have seen 

 who had any claims whatever to admiration on the score of personal 

 appearance. The boatmen who had ferried us over the lake spoke 

 no language but their own patois of German, and though I am|in 

 most instances quite ready to subscribe to the truth of Pope's apho- 

 rism, in my particular case a little learning proved not dangerous but 

 useful, for I managed to explain to these Charons what we wanted 

 with the aid of the half dozen words of High Dutch which are the 

 extent of my vocabulary. 



September 7th. 



THE rain, which had continued falling throughout the night, had 

 washed away the road as is not uncommon in mountainous districts ; 

 as however our mode of travelling did not require a very excellent 

 path, as soon as .the weather cleared a little we set out to cross the 

 Brunig, myself on foot and my companion on a sorry which as far as 

 appearance went might have been mother to Rosinarite, though we 

 were assured it was a most excellent horse despite its uncouth form 

 and gaunt sides to which we had objected. However it was Hob- 

 son's choice, that or none, and on we went, with a peasant for a guide 

 who was to bring back the horse from Lurgern on the other side of 

 the mountain. We wound our way upwards on a stony path, broken 

 by torrents through which the others waded and over which I hopped 



