444 A VISIT TO ST. PETER'S AT ROME. 



the will, have also the power oflistening to, and understanding- more- 

 over any confidential communications we might make to each other. 

 However, I believe I may safely inform you that the Cardinals are 

 very jealous of the Pope, and of each other ; and it is said that a cer- 

 tain English gentleman of fortune and family, who has consented to 

 become one of the body, lived at first in much too good style to suit 

 either the pockets or the pride of his colleagues, and that he after wards 

 found it as well to fall to the level of those by whom he is surrounded. 

 It is also whispered that the holy conclave are fond of electing as 

 Pope some one of their number who is weakly, decrepit, and perhaps 

 nearly imbecile, in order to avoid putting themselves under a sovereign 

 who has the capability, if he has the inclination to take the reins into 

 his own hands. They certainly have overreached themselves in this 

 manner in one or two instances, as several Popes, immediately after 

 their election, have almost miraculously cast their skin, and have ap- 

 peared to be suddenly invigorated with the freshness of youth. One 

 cunning old pontiff, who used to stoop a great deal, and be constantly 

 leaning on crutches during his cardinalate, most unexpectedly threw 

 them aside on his elevation to the popedom, and walked as upright as 

 any member of the college. His friends were struck with astonish- 

 ment at the change, and requested an explanation of the difference 

 observable in his manner of carriage ; to which he merely replied 

 that formerly he was looking for the keys of St. Peter, and now he 

 had found them. 



" Scandal respecting the highest dignitaries of the church is of 

 course always flying about the eternal city ; but it is not more pro- 

 bable that a few of them may have been men of not unyielding mo- 

 rals, than it is that falsehoods are propagated respecting many others, 

 and that by far the greater portion of their number are adorned by 

 character, learning, and benevolence. Of these matters it is very 

 difficult for a stranger to judge, as he can hear but little, and he must 

 not believe the half of what he hears. 



" However, if we allow the popes to be virtuous in general, we 

 must at least charge them with being sometimes a little too prudish. 

 That marble statue of Justice, after the designs of Michael Angelo, 

 which was already sufficiently draped for any reasonable person, has 

 received an additional covering of bronze from the hands of Bernini. 

 Bernini again spoiling what his predecessors had left perfect ! But 

 in this instance we cannot blame him, as he was obliged to act ac- 

 cording to his orders, and the only wonder is that he has done so lit- 

 tle damage to the figure. The legend says that several foolish young 

 fentlemen have successively fallen in love with it, and did, I don't 

 now what with themselves in consequence ; but it is astonishing how 

 any of Michael Angelo's grim beauties could excite the tender pas- 

 sion. The most loveable thing in the whole church is the Genius by 

 Canova, which stands close by the Communion of St. Girolamo. 

 Grace, ease, and tenderness combine to form a creature of perfect 

 ideal beauty. There is something so angelic and unearthly in its 

 character, that you are puzzled to pronounce which sex it belongs 

 to. It is a compound of female softness united to masculine vigour 

 and elasticity ; and in moulding this Genius, Canova has created a 



