AX ASCENT OF VESUVIUS. 121 



rom th e summit of the volcano, it is more distinct, and more richly 

 coloured, and there is quite enough to fill both the eye and the 

 imagination. There is Naples sparkling by the sea side, the islands 

 of Ischia^Procida, and Nisita, and the gulf of Baiae. Beyond the pro- 

 montory of Misenum is the bay of Gaeta; and behind all is the long 

 line of the Appennines, some glowing with purple, and others shining 

 with snow. Nearer at hand, and in the centre of a fertile plain, is 

 Capua ; and far out at sea, rising like a ruined wall from the horizon, 

 lies Capri, the delight and shame of the Roman Emperors. On the 

 left, bending in a curve as blue as the sky, is stretched the Sorren- 

 tine coast, once the abode of cyclops and giants ; and there, crushed 

 at the foot of the mountain, Herculaneum, one of its victims, lies 

 buried deep under the solid lava. 



From the Hermitage to the foot of the cone of ashes, which forms 

 the upper portion of Vesuvius, is but a short ride ; and the pathway 

 runs all along the top of the ridge, affording on each side lovely 

 views of the surrounding plain, the sea, and the distant mountains, 

 while one side of the volcano is covered or streaked with the streams 

 of lava which run towards Portici, and seem terminated by the sea. 

 After all, these burnt-up plains, though sufficiently appalling, do not 

 present to the mind images of unmixed horror, for there is always 

 something fertile and smiling to be found in the distant prospect : 

 they are the valley of the shadow of death, but life is seen beyond 

 them. 



And here ends the second stage of the pilgrimage. The donkeys 

 halt under the brow of a bed of lava, which has cooled in the form 

 of a wave about to break ; and under its shelter they await the re- 

 turn of th eir riders, who must now proceed by their own strength 

 and vigour. 



And now for the cone of Mount Vesuvius. It looks steep, and it 

 looks long. So pull off your coat, untie your cravat, and get rid of 

 your waistcoat ; for you won't want them till you reach the top. 

 Think of Sisyphus, and congratulate yourself that your ascent is not 

 to last for ever. " Up a high hill he heaves a huge round stone." 

 But, if this had been the hill of Sisyphus, he never would have rolled 

 the stone up it ; and, therefore, the latter part of his punishment would 

 have been impossible. " The huge round stone, resulting with a 

 bound, thunders impetuous down, and smokes along the ground." 



So steep is the ascent that common sand or gravel would not lie 

 at so great an inclination to the horizon, but would slip down by its 

 own weight: it is only the peculiar lightness and roughness of these 

 ashes, consisting as they do of small pieces of cinder and pumice 

 stone, which makes them hold together thus. If, on stopping to take 

 breath, one turns round to see how the rest of the party are advancing, 

 it seems almost like looking down the side of a leaning tower, such 

 as those at Pisa or Bologna. At every step the foot sinks deep into 

 the ashes, and slips back a part of the distance it has advanced. The 

 greatest lightness and caution is necessary in order to obtain a firm 

 footing ; and, by violent and ill-placed exertions, it would be very 

 possible to have gone through the mechanism of walking for the 

 space of ten minutes as it were on a treadmill, and at the end of that 



