598 LETTERS FROM A CONTINENTAL TOURIST. 



an examination which, I am informed, is tolerably severe, and as 

 book-learning of any kind must necessarily improve the mind, and as 



food breeding is the mark and result of a cultivated intellect, this 

 igh tone of character may be the natural consequence of their 

 enforced studies. Be it how it may, the fact is as T state it, and as 

 my own impressions were confirmed by the experience of others, 

 and as the parties, from the observation of whose conduct I found 

 my opinions were numerous at Coblentz thence to Cologne, and 

 these last two as far as Nimwegen and were, for several days, in 

 constant contact with me, in the limited circle of a steam-boat, or 

 seated at that great touch-stone of a man's temper, a table d'hote, 

 I have no reason to think I have formed too hasty an opinion of the 

 affability and courteousness of these truly respectable and unassuming 

 gentlemen. 



September 19. 



AGAIN at day-break were we roused to embark in our cold damp 

 steam-boat, and hurry down the Waal and Maas to Rotterdam. The 

 river was covered with vessels, and the number of loaded barges, 

 stemming the stream, 'gave earnest of the commercial wealth of the 

 country. At half-past twelve we saw the tower of the cathedral of 

 Rotterdam, and arrived there about two o'clock. The forest of masts 

 that surrounded and divided this floating town recalled vividly the 

 image of old England, and the clean brick houses arid rosy-cheeked 

 damsels added to the strength of the reminiscence. 



There is little to see in Rotterdam. The great church which, 

 externally and internally, is utterly destitute of beauty, contains the 

 monument of Admiral de Witt, which is, perhaps, to an Englishman 

 the most interesting object. They profess to have a much larger and 

 finer organ than that of Haerlaem, and it certainly occupies an im- 

 mense space in the building ; but I did not hear it, and can, there- 

 fore only judge of its outside qualities. The pipes are silvered, 

 not gilt, after the fashion of, or setting the fashion to, the great Bir- 

 mingham organ. 



The dampness of Rotterdam may be readily conceived by any one 

 who can imagine a town more than half the site of which being 

 occupied by water, the atmosphere is constantly impregnated with 

 particles of evaporated fluid. But a Dutchman as well as a bull-frog 

 thrives in a marsh, for a fatter, healthier-looking people I never 

 beheld, and there is a general appearance of wealth and activity 

 about the busy quais which bespeaks as healthy a state of financial 

 matters as of persons. We saw no idlers except such as ourselves, 

 who wandered over the town to kill time in looking for curiosities 

 which were not to be found, or, when found, proved not worth the 

 looking after. 



I must not, however, forget a tolerably good statue of Erasmus, 

 which is most unpoetically placed in the centre of a vegetable market, 

 or, at least, is surrounded by venders of the produce of the Dutch 

 gardens. It deserved a better fate. 



The canals which run through the streets are for a while new to 

 the eye, and therefore amusing. But after you have seen a few 



