230 THE CARNIVAL AT ROME, 



and of such a nation as Rome, there also arises a certain dignity and 

 grandeur very imposing to a stranger. The best troops are em- 

 ployed, in their best regimentals ;* good military bands parade the 

 town, and are stationed in different parts of the Corso ; and every 

 movement of the day, such as clearing out the carriages, the prepara- 

 tions for the race, and the readmission of carriages, are all regulated 

 by the sound of cannon. The horses start from the foot of that obe- 

 lisk, more than three thousand years old, which Augustus Caesar 

 brought from Egypt, and dedicated to the sun : and they stop close 

 by the Capitol. After the race, the winning horse is actually led off 

 to the Capitol, attended by drums, the banner he has won, and a de- 

 tachment of soldiers, on the outskirts of that very Via Sacra through 

 which passed the triumphs of so many victorious heroes of ancient 

 Rome. The conduct of the people too shows that they know how to 

 respect themselves. Never once, during the whole eight days, did I 

 witness, or hear of, a single case of indecency, insult, drunkenness, 

 or pocket-picking among the masks an astonishing instance of good 

 behaviour, if we consider how many thousands are congregated on 

 each day. The governments of Rome and Naples have lately been 

 nervous about the carnival, fearing political disturbances, but I think 

 without sufficient grounds, as the people are too much intent upon 

 pursuing their own whims to pay attention to more serious matters. 



To this fete the Romans look forward from one end of the year to 

 the other. It is this, and one or two other such festivals, which recon- 

 cile them to the espionage of the priests,+ and the burdens imposed 

 by an impoverished and overgrown hierarchy ; and it may be that it 

 is such seasons of general relaxation and enjoyment which diffuse 

 among the Roman poor a happiness, a content, and a good feeling, 

 which is certainly not to be found among the labouring classes in 

 England. 



Few sights can be prettier or more elegant than the illu- 

 mination, which concludes all things, and takes place on the last 

 evening of the carnival. Immediately that the race is ended, 

 which is about five or ten minutes after sunset, the cannons fire, to 

 give notice that carriages may again enter the Corso. In a very short 



* It must, however, be confessed that bad are the best, both troops and regimentals. 

 It would be difficult to find in all Europe a more unwashed, unshaven, undrilled, ill- 

 matched, and insubordinate set of soi-disant soldiers than the papal army. To give 

 one trait : The inferior officers and private soldiers associate together in perfect equa- 

 lity, and a man will not receive orders unless he be addressed by the title of " Signore, 

 or Sir." The handful of Swiss, and the body guard, or Guarda Nobile, who are gen- 

 tlemen and noblemen, are certainly superior to the rest ; but then these latter are 

 merely soldiers of parade, to adorn the ceremonial on days of state. 



f* Besides those ecclesiastics who reside in their colleges and convents, there are so 

 many others dispersed about the city, that it would be difficult to point out, in the in- 

 habited parts of Rome, a space of a hundred yards square where one of these gentle- 

 men is not to be found. Each of them, in his little circle, is well acquainted with 

 what passes both within doors and without. If a foreigner stands but five'minutes in 

 the streets in conversation with a native, he will soon find that a cocked-hat and a black 

 gown are anxiously eaves-dropping. And never in Rome do you see Punch or a bal- 

 lad-singer, or an extempore story-teller, without finding a priest attached to the group, 

 who, evidently, both from look and attitude, is scenting after treason, not loitering for 

 amusement. 



