Nov. 28, 1859.] OF THE CENTRAL AFRICAN EXPEDITION. 25 



was no approach that year within a mile, the river having deepened on the 

 opposite shore, and from the constant shifting of hanks and even whole islands 

 it is difiicult to lay down soundings at all correctly ; had, however, his rough 

 chart been sent home (which was taken from him by Dr. Livingstone together 

 with liis instruments), it would have given some idea of the depth of water at 

 that time. He might add, that owing to the changeable nature of the river, the 

 Portuguese have almost entirely given up the use of launches, as they find the 

 canoes swifter and better. 



The river sometimes overflows its banks, but not often ; the last time it did 

 so was in 1839 ; at that time the course of the Mutu could not be distinguished, 

 and canoes came direct overland from the Zambesi to Quillimane. At the end 

 of June 1858 the bed of the Mutu was about 8 feet above the level of the 

 Zambesi, with long grass growing in it : the water abreast of it was about 

 2 J feet, but there was a deeper channel on the opposite side of the river. 



With regard to the entrance of the Zambesi, the only bars worth surveying 

 would be the "Kattrina" and " Kongone ;" the former if properly surveyed 

 would prove to be the best, as it was the direct discharge to the largest body 

 of water, and after passing the bar an advance of 10 miles clears the mangrove ; 

 you then come to high grassy banks that extend all the way to Mazarro of the 

 Mutu. It should be remarked that from the mangrove to Shupanga, a dis- 

 tance of 70 miles, there is no wood fit for steaming purposes. 



The Kongone has the objection of the narrow creek with two awkward 

 elbows, and as many banks ; the average depth at high water is 11 feet. 



The Muselo has too wide a mouth, and is too much exposed to the south-east 

 ever to be of much use. On a smooth day when they sounded it they had to 

 turn back for the breakers in 10 feet. 



Mr. Cooke, the master of the Lynx, has made the best plan of the entrance, 

 but it is evident, if ever the river is opened for trade, much more time must 

 be spent on the survey than any of them had at their disposal, and regular 

 pilots would have to watch the constant changes. 



The Quillimane bar has 3^ fathoms at high water spring- tides, but the com- 

 munication with the Zambesi is cut off several months of the year. The creek 

 near the entrance connecting it with the other mouths is a mere ditch, dry at 

 low water. 



The climate in June was delightful, with the exception of thick fogs in the 

 morning ; the thermometer at night was frequently down to 60° Fahr. The 

 two or three cases of fever they had were, in his opinion, mainly caused by 

 exposure to the fogs and heavy dews, against the advice of Dr. Kirk : such 

 exposure in any river on the West Coast would have laid the whole party up 

 in a fortnight. Mr. Baines was several times knocked down in this way, and 

 from overwork in the midday sun his head was very much affected, and he 

 was obliged to be watched in his tent. 



The country from Mazarro to Senna is exceedingly rich and in some places 

 a good deal cultivated ; at one garden he counted sixteen diflerent productions, 

 including cotton, tobacco, sugar, Indian corn, and several European vege- 

 tables ; there is also fair wheat and excellent rice grown nearer the coast. 

 Shupanga appeared to him to be the place for agricultural enterprise ; a 

 Portuguese farmer told him it was admirably adapted for cotton or sugar, but 

 nobodj'- would plant because it was quite uncertain who gets the crop, the 

 natives or the owners. They all have to pay black mail to the Landeens, a 

 Senhor Cruz, who pays 400 dollars to the government for his house, and in 

 addition 500 dollars to the Landeens for permission to live there and make 

 canoes; the government is not strong enough to protect them. 



Whilst at Shupanga Captain Bedingfeld walked with Dr. Kiik and 

 Mr. Thornton to some lakes about 20 miles to the north-west ; the principal 

 one was called "Bovie," and was, he should think, about Smiles long and 



