AND A JOURNEY OVER THE LLAXOS OF CUMANA. 29 



At length , having again partially subdued my fever-fits, I em- 

 barked on board a large boat, which was carrying various articles of 

 European manufacture, chiefly to the scattered settlements now much 

 disorganized on the higher Orinoco and its tributaries. This was 

 precisely the conveyance I wanted, as it was the intention of the 

 padrone to touch at most of the villages, whether Indian or not, for 

 the purpose of disposing of hi* cargo. He was a man apparently 

 singularly fitted for the station he held. The banks of the river, and 

 indeed the whole fastnesses wherever they were habitable, were in- 

 fested by roving hordes of desperadoes whom crimes of a blacker 

 nature then usual had driven for a time from the pale of society 

 or by convicted felons, whom the disturbed state of the surrounding 

 provinces had permitted to escape punishment. With the chief haunts 

 of these the padrone seemed quite familiar j indeed it was not very un- 

 likely but that he himself had formed not long before a part of these 

 hordes. He was a negro of giant proportions, admirably formed^ 

 and presenting as fine and muscular a frame as I ever saw. His bold 

 bearing was more effective in consequence of several deep cuts which 

 his half-covered chest exposed to view, and by a resolute and deter- 

 mined expression of countenance, showing plainly enough that few 

 dangers could daunt, and still fewer feelings interfere^ with thecom- 

 mission of deeds of the most desperate character. 



For the personal safety of my self and attendants, and for the pro- 

 tection of the property I embarked, I had no fear. I had become fa- 

 miliarized with recklessness. I had found that men of the fiercest 

 natures and most lawless habits were faithful in the performance 

 of voluntary agreements, and more particulary in cases where unli- 

 mited confidence was reposed in them. I left Muitaca, therefore, 

 with a confident spirit, fearing nothing but my troublesome disease. 

 The crew consisted of eight men of various races and colours, but all 

 stout, athletic, and determined-looking fellows, fit mates for their 

 leader. To these were added my two Zambos, the Indian remaining 

 in the town where he had met with several persons of his own tribe 

 and with whom he intended to proceed to some settlements existing 

 far away towards the south. 



We started on the 20th of April, expecting the rainy season to be 

 fairly set in before we reached any of the dangerous parts of the 

 stream. What a glorious what a magnificent river is the Orinoco ! 

 no man who has seen its mightiness can look back to it without feel- 

 ings almost approaching to awe. The immense mass of waters which 

 flows along its channel the incredible nature of the many strange 

 sights it develops the striking scenery through which it takes its 

 course combine to leave an impression on the mind, which no sub- 

 sequent wanderings can ever efface. It was now near the end of the 

 dry season the current was at its lowest ebb leaving broad spaces 

 of bare beech glistening beneath the torrid sun. These were bounded 

 by thick hedges of sauso, through which were openings made by the 

 innumerable animals seeking it for prey or to quench their thirst. 

 To compare great things with small, it looked' like a large canal with 

 ;i towing-path on each side. Nothing was more surprising than the 

 vast numbers of crocodiles which we daily saw, basking themselves 



