SCENES OF THE NEVA. 433 



far above ordinary humanity. I have heard that,, being addressed in 

 terms of dignified familiarity by a provincial star, who gracefully de- 

 nounced all ordinary tastes as unworthy of himself, as he presumed 

 they would be considered by one of royal blood, had his affectation 

 xind vulgarity at once as decidedly reproved, by the prince drolly 

 observing" Faith, sir ! at home, I clean my own boots and my 

 father's too." 



SCENES ON THE NEVA. 



THE Russians of the modern capital are a gay light-hearted race,, 

 notwithstanding the length and severity of their winters, which might 

 be supposed to cast that gloomy tinge over their character, so obser- 

 vable in most of the barbarous nations. The two seasons, however, 

 bring with them their enjoyments and attractions, and, as if setting 

 at defiance all the unpleasant feelings and effects of the intense and 

 prolonged inclemency of the winter, it is the season of gaiety and 

 high fashion with the barbarians. The chiefs of the country, at this 

 year, flock to their town palaces, and are plunged into a never-end- 

 ing round of fetes and parties, given on a scale of splendour and 

 magnificence hardly to be excelled. The Czar takes up his abode 

 during this season at his winter palace, the town imperial residence, 

 and adds to the general gaiety, by a series of balls and masquerades, 

 given to the court and nobility. In fact, in the midst of the general 

 stagnation of nature, society in St. Petersburg is all alive. The 

 severe cold has not certainly so much influence as in England ; their 

 houses being heated throughout with stoves, the temperature is 

 capable of being regulated to a nicety, so that in the depth of winter 

 no extra clothing is required within doors, and on going abroad for a 

 morning's sledging, great precaution is used to clothe the body in 

 furs up to the very eyes. The winter seldom breaks up till the 

 middle of April, and as the short-lived summer rapidly advances, it 

 'is the signal for the world of fashion toretire to their chateaux and 

 country estates, for a three months summer heat, as intense as was 

 the cold of the winter. St. Petersburg now becomes comparatively 

 deserted, except by the merchants and those whose occupations com- 

 pel them to remain ; and even at this period the Czar is frequently 

 found at the winter palace, as the business of the empire requires 

 his presence, when he is of course attended by the court, and draws 

 to his train many of the nobility. But even those who are obliged 

 to remain in the city, contrive to purchase or rent for the season their 

 chateaux and villas in the environs, where at the distance of a few 

 miles only, they can pass much of their time with their families. Many 

 of these villas are delightfully situated on the beautiful islands of the 

 Neva, and are built in the Italian style, with long porticoes or veran- 

 das, covered with a profusion of flowers. 



The summer has likewise its attractions, notwithstanding the over- 

 powering heat. The evenings are devoted to lounging in the public 

 gardens of Krestoffskoi, the grounds of the Yelagin palace, and the 

 various other beautiful spots about the islands, and in the vicinity of 

 M.M. No. 94. 3 K 



