434 SCENES ON THE NEVA. 



the city, while the drives in all directions are frequented by the 

 nobility and gentry in their open carriages and droskies, or on horse- 

 back. As there is at this period of the year no absolute night, these 

 amusements are kept up till a late hour, after which the chateaus are 

 lighted up, and sounds of mirth and music are heard in every quarter. 

 I cannot easily forget the impression made upon me by my first 

 walk through the islands on one of those cool and delicious evenings, 

 so grateful after a sultry day occupied in sight-seeing in the city. I 

 had dined with a friend at his town residence, and, leaving our 

 wine early, we embarked on the grand branch of the Neva, a splen- 

 did stream, as wide as the Thames at Waterloo Bridge ; but unlike 

 that river, not disfigured by muddy banks, coal- wharfs, and unsightly 

 buildings. In lieu of which a deep, clear stream, is constantly flowing 

 at the same level, (there being no tides in the Baltic), flanked by 

 superb, massy red granite quays or walls, with low parapets, and 

 and here and there noble landing places. On the quays a broad 

 carriage way and handsome pavement next the parapet separates 

 the line of palaces and magnificent edifices which adorn its banks 

 from the river itself. Leaving the city we glided up a canal con- 

 necting the grand branch with what is called the Little Neva, and 

 entered upon a broad expanse of water, enlivened with numerous boats 

 skimming on its surface, and the banks varied with wood and lawn, 

 and adorned with elegant villas and chateaux, forming altogether a 

 delicious scene. Landing on the Island of Krestoflfskoi, we passed 

 through the grounds, and close to the chateau of the Lord of the 

 Manor, down a long avenue cut through a wood, in which to the right 

 and left vistas of some extent exhibited a temple or statue at the extre- 

 mity, and crossed another branch of the Neva by a wooden bridge, 

 where we encountered groups of idlers like ourselves enjoying the 

 shades of the lovely evening, and enduring with good grace the attacks 

 of swarms of musquitoes. We now entered upon another island, and 

 our route ran for two miles through public grounds and well gravelled 

 walks, without a speck of dirt or a weed to be seen, exhibiting a taste 

 and variety in the laying out equal to that displayed in the grounds of 

 many of our own nobility. It seemed strange to an English eye, that 

 the spirit of destruction and wanton mischief was not abroad to anni- 

 hilate the seats and root up th? flowers and shrubs in these public 

 footways, open to all, and leading to the various villas and villages 

 around. What should we expect in England, while sitting over our 

 wine in our rural retreat in the neighbourhod of London, with all the 

 windows open, enjoying one of the few summer evenings we are in- 

 dulged with in our climate, on beholding a party of strangers of a 

 dubious appearance coming round our shrubbery, through the 

 flower garden, and across our well shorn lawn immediately before our 

 very windows ? Yet such is done in this land of semi-barbarism, 

 and no harm or injury follows. The truth is, the fear of the knout is 

 before their eyes; the police are on the alert to prevent it, and 

 knowing this, the people do not dream of devastation. John Bull 

 would rebel at the knout, the liberty of the subject would not brook 

 such unconstitutional regimen. Every member of the national family 

 would assert his independence in a manner more decisive than agree- 

 able. 



