436 SCENES ON THE NEVA. 



cottages. We had our refreshments served in a room or large bal- 

 cony even with the ground, open at all sides, and filled with abun- 

 dance of flowers, not forgetting gnats and musquitoes. We returned 

 home by a different route. Avoiding the grounds we had before tra- 

 versed, we kept along the banks of several branches of the Neva, and 

 crossed more than one bridge. The scene, ever presenting a pleasing 

 variety, was occasionally much heightened by a distant chorus of pea- 

 sants returning from their labour, singing in parts a wild national air 

 of which they are very fond, and which, in the stillness of a sultry 

 but lovely evening, broke upon the ear as it swept along the calm 

 bosom of the river most exquisitely ; although, on a nearer approach, 

 the charm ceased, and the voices became harsh and discordant. 

 After enjoying this lovely scene for some distance, we entered upon 

 the public gardens of Krestoffskoi, which slope down to the river, 

 and, although not large, are laid out prettily. We here crossed the 

 river by a ferry, and had a long and disagreeable drag through the 

 outskirts of the city to our hotel. We found the roads in the envi- 

 rons occasionally paved (as a native of the Emerald Isle would say), 

 with deal boards, the footway being of the same material, but raised 

 considerably above the road. We were not at home till two in the 

 morning, but as there is no night, or rather darkness, beyond a slight 

 twilight at this time of year, a foreigner, till he becomes used to it, 

 is, as was my case, quite out in his reckoning of time : it is midnight 

 ere he thinks of looking how time goes. 



On the following Sunday evening I visited, with a friend, the 

 Krestoffskoi Gardens, which are then the resort of the citizens, and 

 are crowded to excess. On arriving at the Little Neva a most 

 animating scene presented itself, fully proving the correctness of the 

 observation with which I started, respecting the character of the 

 Muscovites. From the river, at a little distance, as we approached 

 the scene of action, the effect was novel and extremely striking. The 

 broad sheet of water appeared like a still lake, covered with boats 

 filled with gay and joyous parties the well-wooded banks and the 

 elegant villas interspersed about the groups scattered here and there 

 along the margin of the river, or in the open glades of the woods, in 

 parties of six or a dozen, dressed in their gay holiday costume, 

 around their fires on which their kettle boiled, drinking their favourite 

 spirit watkey, or tea, and feasting upon the grass. Other parties 

 were rambling about the woods, and singing, at the top of their lungs, 

 in chorus and good harmony, the peculiarly wild but riot unpleasing 

 national music ; and further on, in the gardens themselves, the 

 crowds and bustle of people, and numbers of boats waiting, formed 

 a picture such as the vivid fancy of the most enthusiastic painter 

 would delight in tracing. As we neared the landing-place the music 

 of the military bands came more distinctly on the ear, accompanied 

 with the laughs and shouts of the holiday-makers. In the midst of 

 this din we landed, and promenaded with the company round the 

 gardens. We found a mixture of all sorts ; some few smart parties 

 of ladies and officers, followed by servants of a peculiarly savage 

 appearance, in fierce cocked hats, and with huge canes; while in the 

 roads skirting the gardens, carriages and droskies were driving about 



