Fbb. 28, 1859.] IN THE ALA-TU AND AC-TU MOUNTAINS. 131 



lake, the water appearing of inky blackness. To the north, crags 

 rose up far above us, while to the south the mountain was so steep 

 that it appeared impossible to find a path in that direction. This, 

 however, was our only chance. 



We began our ascent by going in slanting lines, gaining but little 

 at each tack, and turning our horses with great difficulty. As we 

 ascended higher, each turning gave us a deeper view into the terrible 

 abyss, with nothing to stop man or horse should either slip. After 

 extraordinary toil and no little anxiety we reached a part more easy 

 to ascend, over which we rode. In due time we reached the crest of 

 the mountain, when we turned towards the west, and saw that the 

 day was fast declining. The old guide rode by my side, pointing out 

 the peaks and crags near which we were to pass. 



I inquired how he became so well acquainted with this wild 

 region, and after a few questions to ascertain whence I came, and 

 finding he had nothing to fear from me, he acknowledged that he 

 once belonged to a strong band of robbers, commanded by a cele- 

 brated chief, " Kinsara." This man was the scourge of all the tribes, 

 whom he often plundered, carrying ofi" their horses, camels, men, 

 women and children. His daring acts filled the Kirghis with so 

 much dread that they dared not follow him into the mountains 

 amidst scenes where they believed was the veritable residence of 

 Shaitan. 



Our route was along a mountain ridge, sometimes at the base of 

 high igneous crags, at others over parts covered with moss and short 

 grass. Then we came into a labyrinth of rocks, through which it 

 appeared impossible to find our way ; but our robber-guide led on 

 without once being at fault. We presently obtained a splendid view of 

 the snowy chain of the Ac-tu stretching to the east and west. Its vast 

 glaciers and high peaks were sparkling like rubies in the setting sun; 

 while beneath, several bold rocky ridges rose out of the haze, and 

 nearer to us a lower chain of mountains and valleys covered with 

 vegetation. This is the region in which the Kirghis find their 

 summer pastures. 



A short ride brought us to the bank of a small and rapid stream, 

 which we followed down into the valley, where we found a fine clump 

 of birch and picta trees, under which we took up our lodgings. It was 

 indeed a quiet spot, for not a sound could be heard save the mur- 

 muring of the stream and our own voices. Near to our encampment 

 another narrow valley branched off to the southward, running up 

 between high mountains and rugged precipices. At the end of the 

 ravine some high cliffs rose up, and far beyond it one of the highest 

 peaks of the Ac-tu reared his mighty head, on which the last rays 



VOL. III. M 



