132 ATKINSON'S JOURNEY THROUGH PASSES [Feb. 28, 1859. 



of the Sim were shining, lighting it up like a crimson beacon, while 

 a gloomy twilight was creeping over us. 



The effect was singularly beautiful. Around us luxuriant summer 

 vegetation was growing, intermingled with flowers, blooming in all 

 their glory. As the valley ascended, both flowers and vegetation 

 gi*adually diminished thi'ough every grade, till the moss on the rocks 

 disappeared. Then came a scene of utter desolation, where the 

 effects of the thundering avalanches are palpably visible, the wreck 

 of wliich cut off the view of the glaciers ; while the high peak, 

 clothed in his cold wintry garb, looked inexpressibly ghastly and 

 chilling. Wishing to get a peep at my companions, I walked to a 

 shoi-t distance, and beheld the group sitting around our camp fire. 

 As the valley was shrouded in deep gloom, the bright-red flame gave 

 a peculiar character to the scene. Having jotted down a few notes, 

 I joined my companions, when our saddle-cloths were spread on the 

 ground, and very soon all except the sentinel were fast asleep. 



Just as day dawned I was awoke by the neighing of one of the 

 horses close to my ear. On looking round I observed the sun's rays 

 had not yet touched the snowy peaks, and all the chain below was 

 enveloped in a grey misty haze. Presently the people were roused 

 and each man attending to his duties ; the young chiefs spread their 

 kalats on the grass and offered up their devotions ; their example 

 was followed by the other Kirghis and my men, each in his own 

 peculiar way. In a short time we were in our saddles and riding 

 up the valley, which was covered with rich grass and flowers, while 

 shrubs and dwarf-cedars were growing and hanging from the 

 clefts. In parts the precipices rose from 800 to 1000 feet, their 

 summits split into various-shaped turi'ets and pinnacles. At one 

 point huge buttresses jutted out into the valley, appearing as we 

 approached to close up the ravine and stop all further progress ; 

 having passed these, we had a beautiful view of the snowy chain. 



Near the source of the Bascan there was one very high peak, which 

 had evidently been conical in form, and this had been torn asunder. 

 One half only was standing ; the rent was curved, and the upper 

 part overhanging considerably. No snow could rest on this pre- 

 cipitous face, and the rocks appeared of a dark purple. The snow 

 that had been accumulating on this mountain, probably for thousands 

 of ages, was riven into perpendicular cliffs 700 or 800 feet high, 

 appearing like Pentelic marble. This was a stupendous precipice, 

 but the whole height could not be seen from our position; my 

 impression, however, is, that it cannot be less than 2000 feet. 



Having reached a point where the guide changed our route, we 

 turned towards the west, up a narrow and abrupt ravine, by which we 



