Feb. 28, 1859.] IN THE ALA-TU AND AC-TU MOUNTAINS. 139 



I was now led on over huge blocks straight towards the base of 

 the cli^s, where I came to some vast masses over which it was im- 

 possible to climb. After scrambling round the end of these we 

 entered a cleft formed in the fallen mass, which was almost dark. 

 The old man, however, groped his way on, I followed close at his 

 heels, and our companions were immediately behind me. Having 

 threaded our way through this fissure for about 50 yards, we emerged 

 into daylight, upon a narrow ledge overhanging the torrent. In 

 front a dark jutting precipice almost closed the chasm, rising nearly 

 perpendicular, not less than 1800 feet. A few small bushes were 

 growing in the crevices near the pass, with scattered plants on the 

 upper ledges, and in this Cyclopean mass was the yawning mouth of 

 the cavern swallowing up the river. We stood silent with astonish- 

 ment watching the torrent rush on into the fearful abyss, producing 

 a sound that created such a feeling of dread, I ceased to wonder that 

 the Kirghis thought Shaitan had his dwelling here. 



The mouth of the cavern was formed by a rugged arch about 50 

 feet wide and 70 feet high : the river entered this opening in a 

 channel cut into the solid rock — it was about 30 feet wide and appa- 

 rently 10 feet deep. A ledge of rocks about 12 feet wide formed a 

 terrace along the edge of the stream and just above the level of the 

 water. When my astonishment had somewhat subsided, I prepared 

 to explore the cavern by placing my packet of baggage and my rifle 

 on the rocks, and the two Cossacks followed my example. The 

 guide watched these proceedings with great interest, but when he 

 beheld us enter the cavern he was horrified. Having proceeded 

 about twenty paces the noise caused by the falling water was fearful, 

 and a damp, cold, chilling blast met us. From this point the cavern 

 extended both in width and height, but I could form no idea of its 

 dimensions. We cautiously groped our way on in the gloom for 

 about 80 yards from the entrance, when we could see the river 

 bound into a terrific abyss " black as Erebus," while some white 

 vapour came wreathing up, giving the spot a most supernatural 

 appearance. 



Few persons could stand on the brink of this gulf without a 

 shudder : the roaring of the water was dreadful as it echoed in the 

 lofty dome. It was impossible to hear a word spoken, nor could 

 this scene be contemplated long : there was something too fearful 

 for the strongest nerves when trying to peer into these horrible 

 depths. We turned away and looked towards the opening through 

 which we had entered : for a short distance the sides and arch were 

 lighted up, but the great space and vast dome were lost in darkness. 



On leaving the cavern we passed round the jutting rocks and 



