March 28, 1859.1 UP THE YANG-TSE-KEANG. 163 



of 500 miles from the mouth of the river. Immediately on com- 

 mencing the voyage, extraordinary changes in the soundings of the 

 jriver, since the time of CoUinson's survey, became manifest — shoals 

 had been converted into islands, and spots formerly avoided as 

 dangerous were now in the course of the deep and safe channel. 

 There were numerous delays from groundings, especially at the 

 outset, but all dangers from first to last were surmounted without 

 accident. Many forts, usually of a small size, had to be passed in 

 the course of the expedition, those in the district adjacent to Nankin 

 being in the hands of the rebels. They frequently opened fire 

 upon the squadron during its upward voyage, but in no case was 

 any damage sustained worth speaking of, and all attacks were 

 speedily silenced. With these isolated exceptions, the reception of 

 the squadron was sufficiently friendly. The character of the river 

 banks is described minutely and with great detail in the paper : 

 it is very varied ; all kinds of scenery appear to alternate. In some 

 parts it is level and monotonous, in others highly picturesque and 

 rocky. The river is often filled with islands, and in all places it 

 shows signs of great alterations of level. The well-known pro- 

 vince of Lakes, with the waters of most of which the river is con- 

 nected, appeared truly remarkable for its extent. There was not 

 much sign of life along the river. The cities were sadly desolated 

 by civil war. Han-Kow was the only place visited that had any 

 pretension to commercial activity. There is no other spot in 

 the empire more suited than it to be the centre whence foreign 

 trade might radiate. But " although there was every appearance 

 of a denser population (in its neighbourhood) than had characterised 

 many sections of the lower portion of the river, we were not im- 

 pressed with the idea either of the fertility of the soil or the wealth 

 and abundance of the inhabitants, which the meagre accounts that 

 had previously reached us led us to form. The peasantry, where 

 the country is not harassed by civil war, are contented and com- 

 fortable ; but there is a total absence of anything like a display of 

 wealth or luxury either in the towns or country. It is difficult to 

 judge of the trading capabilities of a country so internally convulsed 

 as China is at this juncture, but there seems a great danger of over- 

 estimating them. Even between the Poyang Lake and Han-Kow, 

 where the river is perfectly free from rebels, hardly any trading 

 junks are to be seen ; and until we reach the latter city there is no 

 spot at which any considerable head of population is collected, or 

 any indication of an extensive internal traffic apparent." 



The mode in which European commerce appears likely to find its 

 way lip the river is by means of. small. river vessels starting from 



