1831.] [ 269 ] 



IT has been a matter of surprise to many, that, while the press 

 has teemed with information in every possible shape from the favoured 

 regions of the Continent, whither the tide of English emigration has 

 flowed, none of our adventurous tourists have dared to cross the 

 Pyrenees, although the country beyond is as fair as the fertile plains of 

 Lombardy, and the far-famed Alps cannot boast of more romantic 

 features, nor half so varied, as that gigantic barrier which separates 

 Spain from the Continent. 



Perhaps a salutary fear, caused by the recollection of that terrible 

 engine of despotism, the Inquisition, chills the heretical blood of an 

 Englishman ; or the alarming accounts which, from time to time, have 

 been whispered of the indifferent accommodations furnished by certain 

 houses of etertainment, called posadas, have contributed to damp the 

 ardour of our patriotic and enlightened travellers. Be this as it may, it 

 is no subject of regret with me ; for had abler pens been employed, I 

 question whether this specimen of my talents, as an author, had ever 

 seen the light. I have been engaged for many years in important com- 

 mercial transactions with Spain, and, undaunted by the difficulties to 

 which I have alluded, travelled during that time over the greater part 

 of that very interesting country. In default of better information, I 

 therefore propose to give a few sketches from actual observation, which 

 may best serve to illustrate Spanish character and customs, and not 

 prove unentertaining to the general reader. 



My first journey into Spain was during the short-lived dominion of 

 the Constitution ; and as the alteration of the government had a corres- 

 ponding effect on the conduct of the people, creating some novel scenes 

 which it may be some time before we see again, I shall date my obser- 

 vations as far back as August, 1821, at which period I had made my 

 way from London to Bayonne, with my son as a companion, and 

 attended by one servant. On my arrival at Bayonne, I called on Cap- 

 tain Harvey, the British consul, by whose polite assistance our passports 

 were regulated for Madrid. At this period, the roads on the frontiers 

 were so infested with brigands, that travelling was considered a dan- 

 gerous pastime. They had burned all the public conveyances; and 

 to travel alone was neither safe nor economical. Fortunately, we found 

 a coach on its return to Madrid, which saved us further trouble or 

 delay. It was rather a crazy sort of vehicle ; but having no choice, I 

 agreed with the mayoral, or conductor, to set us down in Madrid within 

 the space of nine days, for eight napoleons, which was considered a good 

 bargain. We left Bayonne at twelve o'clock, accompanied by the Mar- 

 quis of Luco and two other Spanish gentlemen of rank, and arrived at St. 

 Jean de Luz the same evening. The next morning, we crossed the Bidas- 

 soa in a boat, the bridge having been destroyed by the French in their 

 retreat after the battle of Vittoria, and entered the province of Guipuscoa 

 in Spain. We continued our journey along the banks of the Bidassoa 

 until we arrived at Irun, the frontier town, when, after the accustomed 

 inspection of baggage and property, we were allowed to proceed. It was 

 suggested by one of our fellow-passengers, that we should hire horses, 

 and make an excursion to San Sebastian, which was at no great distance 



* From the unpublished Notes of SIR PAUL BAGHOTT. 



