1831.] Spanish Highways and Byways.. 277 



man however honestly told me, that even if he were tempted to take 

 the money, the dog would never acknowledge me for a master, but 

 would seek the first opportunity of returning to his companions of the 

 fold. The camp equipage of the wandering shepherds is carried by asses, 

 and mules, and moves in the rear of the line of march. It consists of 

 guns, pots, gridirons, the skins of deer and sheep, stags horns, (for they 

 have frequent opportunities of regaling themselves with venison and 

 game,) and poles for the erection of their tents, or huts. A number of 

 goats generally accompany a cavana, which are the property of the shep- 

 herds, and with the milk, and kids, the men live pretty well. I should 

 not think mutton was scarce with them, for as. no one can tell the num- 

 ber of sheep in a flock, but the shepherds themselves, they are in no 

 danger of detection, should they occasionally wish to vary their repast. 

 There are flocks belonging to the Duke of Infantado, and other noble- 

 men, amounting to thirty or forty thousand sheep. 



Soon after my arrival at Escaray, a party was formed to visit the cele- 

 brated convent of St. Milan. It is situated about twelve miles from 

 Escaray, the road, all the way, presenting a picturesque and beautiful 

 appearance. The monastery, the object of our visit, formerly belonged 

 to a fraternity of Benedictine monks, which was suppressed by a decree 

 of the Cortes, and was now offered for sale on very advantageous terms 

 to the purchaser. This splendid residence was untenanted; the in- 

 mates had been compelled to relinquish a life of luxury and ease, and 

 seek their support in a more meritorious manner, than by taxing the 

 industry of their fellow creatures. We met with a priest who still offici- 

 ated in the church attached to the monastery, who conducted us through 

 the various apartments. They are approached by a noble staircase, 

 twenty feet wide, of grey marble, and are of the most spacious and mag- 

 nificent description. There are three hundred separate cells for the use 

 of the monks, and on measuring one of the corridors I found it to be 

 four hundred and twenty feet in length. The library and chapel have 

 not suffered, but the hall of the Inquisition has been stripped of its books 

 and furniture. The monastery stands in the centre of a park, enclosed 

 by a high wall, and a fine stream of water runs through the whole 

 domain. The situation is enchanting, mountains rise above each other, 

 on every side, in the most beautiful variety ; the river is seen winding 

 through a luxuriant plain, teeming with the richest of Nature's gifts, till 

 it is lost amongst the mountains of Navarre, which are seen dimly in the 

 distance. In fact, I have always observed, that the pious fathers of the 

 church, have invariably fixed their lot in the most pleasant places, and 

 have found it a matter of both conscience and duty, to appropriate to 

 themselves the most goodly heritage. This magnificent territory of 

 S'2.,000 acres, might have been purchased for 12,000, by paying for 

 it in valeas dales. The peasantry seemed humble and poor, but con- 

 tented and happy ; all they appeared to regret in the suppression of the 

 monastery, was the loss of the soup which they had been in the habit of 

 receiving from the Benedictines. At Escaray, I found a letter from Mr. 

 Thomas, of Azuagua, in Estremadura, whom I had heretofore been in cor- 

 respondence with, requesting me to meet him in Madrid, as speedily as 

 possible. He informed me, the merchants in the south of Spain had heard 

 of the success of my experiment with wool, and had determined to sub- 

 mit an advantageous offer to my consideration. I therefore resolved to 

 meet that gentleman in Madrid, according to his appointment, and in a 

 few days set out for Burgos, on my way to the capital. 



