604 Spanish High-ways and By-ways. [JUNE, 



on the total absence of anything like cleanliness or comfort, to be found 

 in the houses of entertainment, whimsically so called. From this place 

 I pursued the direct road to Madrid, passing through Segovia, Villa 

 Castine, and several smaller towns, where the remains of Moorish taste 

 and ingenuity are sufficiently abundant. A circumstance occurred within 

 a league of the capital, which was nearly attended with serious results. 

 It was early in the evening, and I was pursuing my way leisurely, en- 

 joying by anticipation the comfort of my old posada of San Fernanda, 

 when an ill-looking savage started from the road side, and snatched at 

 my bridle. Resenting such an unceremonious assault, and being of 

 opinion that a similar attack on my purse was in contemplation, I drew 

 one of my pistols from the holster, and presenting it at the fellow's head, 

 pulled the trigger. I had not contemplated any occasion for pistols so 

 near Madrid, and had neglected looking to my powder. The pistol 

 therefore missed fire ; and at the same moment half a score ruffians rushed, 

 as it seemed, from all sides, and surrounding me, commanded me with 

 violent imprecations and menaces to alight. For this I had no choice, 

 when in a trice they stripped my horse and that of my servant, of the 

 manifold articles of furniture they bore, examining everything with the 

 utmost minuteness, and then in a surly tone told us we might proceed. 

 At this I was the more surprised, as they did not prefer a claim to watch 

 and purse, which I had prepared as a matter of course. While the ani- 

 mals were reloading, I therefore hazarded a few inquiries, when the chief 

 of the gang informed me, that, as he found we were strangers, he should 

 take no notice of what had passed ; but that it was fortunate for me the 

 pistol had not taken effect, or they would certainly have cut me to pieces 

 on the spot. I was still at a loss ; when I learnt further, that these 

 gentlemen whom I had unwarily taken for a gang of brigands, were 

 officers of the king, on the look out for smugglers; and judging from 

 our appearance that we belonged to that respectable fraternity, thought 

 they had secured a prize. I arrived shortly afterwards at Madrid, and 

 took up my quarters at my old posada of San Fernanda. On the fol- 

 lowing day, I obtained leave from the minister, to inspect the royal 

 mines in Andalusia and Estremadura ; previous to which, however, he 

 expressed a wish that I should visit the royal woollen manufactory at 

 Guadalaxara, and report its state to the government. This was nearly 

 a day's ride, forty miles : therefore, the next morning I hired a calache, 

 and, accompanied by my friend Mr. Thomas (of whom I spoke in my 

 former journey), commenced our excursion. We left Madrid by the gate 

 of Alcala, and passing through a pretty village, of which the chief objects 

 are the palace of the Duchess of Ossuna, and the house of Palafox the 

 hero of Saragossa, we arrived at the town of Alcala de Hen ares. On the 

 road we passed an extensive piece of waste land, on which were grazing a 

 herd of nearly a thousand bulls. These animals were all black ; they 

 were collected to amuse the good people of Madrid at their bull-fights, 

 and served as a stock to draw from as occasion might require. Alcala 

 was originally one of the principal universities in Spain ; it is likewise 

 the residence of the primate, the archbishop of Toledo. The income of 

 this dignitary of the church is estimated at 120, 000 per annum, which, 

 if we consider the value of money in Spain, may be considered the 

 richest prelacy in Christendom. The road from Madrid to Guadalaxara 

 is extremely well cultivated ; no finer wheat is grown in Spain than in 

 this district. Few improvements are visible here in their system of agri- 



