1831.] Spanish High-ways and By-ways. 603 



up our quarters at the house of a shepherd. The good wife had but 

 scanty fare wherewith to regale us, and I set out to forage for our sup- 

 per. There was a small river adjacent which seemed to promise fair, 

 and seeing some boys, I inquired whether they were in the habit of fish- 

 ing. I soon learnt they were not unacquainted with the sport ; and nets 

 being procured, I fixed them across the river, the boys beating the banks 

 and deep places with poles, when we speedily caught as much trout 

 and cray-fish as would have served us for two days. This little village 

 is romantically situated in a fertile valley surrounded by gigantic moun- 

 tains. The male inhabitants usually employ themselves in agriculture ; 

 but at certain seasons they make an inroad into the adjacent mountains, 

 where they form a hunting encampment, usually consisting of between 

 thirty and* forty individuals. The less experienced are then sent with 

 their dogs, to certain passes, where, by the discharge of fire-arms, and 

 the barking of their dogs, they drive the game towards the marksmen, 

 who lie in wait for them, in the directions they are expected to pass. 

 The hunters are very expert, and usually secure a good booty. The 

 wolves they shoot are taken to the alcalde, who pays the sum of eight 

 pesettas for each animal destroyed. The wild boars and deer are sold in 

 the neighbouring villages, and the produce divided amongst the hunters. 

 On leaving the shepherd's house, we followed the course of the river for 

 about two miles, and then entered a lonesome defile, formed by a chasm 

 in the mountain, through which the river forced its way, leaving a small 

 space scarcely sufficient for a horse to travel by its side. I now proceeded 

 to the village of Salas des Infantes, and discharged my guide, though 

 rather unadvisedly ; for after proceeding through a fine country for about 

 eight miles, I was obliged to retrace my steps, owing to my route being 

 intercepted by a river too considerable to ford. There was good sport, 

 however, on the road in shooting partridges, which I found in great 

 numbers. 



It was late in the evening before I reached the house of Don Ramon, 

 to whom I had a letter. He received me very cordially, and invited the 

 dignitaries of the village to meet me at supper. These consisted of the 

 alcalde, the priest, and the parish doctor. The next day, my host fur- 

 nished me with a guide to Aranda, a distance of nine leagues, through a 

 very intricate country ; who, estimating his service probably at a higher 

 rate than I did, arranged the difference, by stealing a handsome silk 

 sash, which I bought in London, intending it for a very different service. 

 During my ride I observed several birds quite strange to me : I endea- 

 voured to shoot some of a dark colour, with red bills, but they evaded my 

 pursuit. I likewise saw a largato, or large lizard, but he retreated to 

 his burrow before I was ready. The next evening, I reached the ancient 

 town of Sepulveda. It stands on a hill, encircled by a deep ravine, 

 through which flows a clear and rapid river. The town is enclosed by 

 walls, flanked by numerous towers and fortifications, and is approached 

 by a steep paved causeway. The rocks on the opposite side of the river 

 are lofty and perpendicular, and are the abode of eagles and vultures. 

 I essayed a shot at one of the former, but my charge was not heavy 

 enough to bring him down. Sepulveda lies considerably from the royal 

 road, and must doubtless have been a place of consequence in the time 

 of the Moors. Many interesting relics of antiquity are to be seen scat- 

 tered about, which is so far fortunate, for it requires the imagination to 

 be occupied, that the mind may be diverted from dwelling with disgust 



4 H 2 



