436 A VISIT TO THE GKKAT ST. BERNARD. 



kind is expected. There is, indeed, fitted up in the vestibule of the 

 chapel, a box (having in its lid a small aperture) " for the benefit of 

 the unfortunate," and it is usual for the richer visitors to testify 

 their gratitude in this way ; but even if the proceeds of this collection 

 were applied towards supporting the expenses of the establishment, 

 they would supply a very inadequate fund indeed. Provisions and 

 even fire- wood are forwarded from Martigny, of course with great 

 labour and at considerable expense ; and for such purposes the mules 

 and servants of the society are under the necessity of descending the 

 mountain every day. There is always an average number of guests 

 to entertain, for even if the weather be too unfavourable for travellers 

 to make the pass, then the persons already there are snowed up, and 

 must of course be fed and catered for during their stay. The truth 

 is, such an establishment is not, and never could be, maintained by 

 the chance contributions of any passing strangers ; a tax is laid in 

 the first place upon the inhabitants of the Valais, perhaps in the 

 shape of provisions ; and secondly, it is supported by bequests and 

 the liberal donations of patriotic individuals. 



We must not forget to mention, casually at least, the dogs of the 

 convent. The appearance of these celebrated animals, and the duties 

 allotted to them, have been so often described, that it is perhaps 

 needless to be diffuse on the subject here. Many are the lives re- 

 ported to have been saved through their assistance ; they effect, in 

 short, what human aid never could contrive. By their wonderful 

 instinct they are enabled to discover and trace the path, however 

 concealed by snow. They roam over the mountain day and night, 

 and should they fall in with any poor wretch who has wandered from 

 the tract, or who is disabled by accident, they either lead the way 

 for him as a guide, or fly back alone for assistance. It is reported 

 that the original breed is lost ; but this is not admitted at the convent, 

 and at any rate the present race seem sufficiently sagacious and 

 efficient for the duties assigned them. There are now but five of 

 these animals employed, but they are far from being scarce, and 

 when untrained may be purchased by strangers for a sum varying 

 from two to six napoleons. The mountaineers, and even the pea- 

 sants of the vallies below, are often to be seen with a dog of St. 

 Bernard attendant upon them, and do not at all scruple paying the 

 value of so noble a companion. The dogs are never bred on the 

 mountain, in consequence of the severity of its atmosphere ; but there 

 is a kennel for them at St. Pierre, and again another at Martigny. 



On reaching the Hospice, travellers are immediately received with 

 the greatest hospitality, and every want is attended to ; a bed-cham- 

 ber is allotted to each person, but in consequence of the extreme 

 cold in these upper apartments, the guests are cautioned not to 

 remain there (unless it be for repose) any longer than is absolutely 

 necessary. They are afterwards ushered into the antique looking 

 saloon, at the entrance of which stands a fine slab of black marble, 

 having on it a Latin inscription, and erected by the republic of the 

 Valais in gratitude to Napoleon. The saloon, or receiving chamber, 

 is a curious wainscotted apartment, having about it a very monastic 

 air, but a little spoiled, as it seemed to me, from the presence of 



