A VISIT TO THE GKEAT ST. BERNARD. 437 



several fantastic trifles from Brighton; the gift probably of some 

 well-meaning lady, who has reached the convent. In this apartment 

 you are left to amuse yourself till six o'clock, the supper hour 

 (should you arrive before that time), and there are not wanting 

 several objects of interest to engage the attention. The Album of 

 St. Bernard, or traveller's book, is a curious record of facts and 

 opinions. In this it is usual for every one to write his name, and 

 whatever else his fancy or gratitude may dictate. It does not seem 

 to have been kept for more than three years, or if it has there has 

 been sad depredation committed upon its leaves by the autograph- 

 hunters. I observed there in particular, one grateful acknowledg- 

 ment coming from a whole family, who had been saved from probable 

 destruction. It was dated in the winter of 1832. This family, it 

 seems, was crossing the mountain into Italy, when a snow storm 

 came on, and they wandered from the path. They fell indeed over 

 no precipices, but most of the party were up to their arms in snow, 

 and in fact, had given themselves over for lost, when the dogs came 

 upon them. 



Adjoining the saloon is a small room or cabinet, containing coins 

 and other Roman antiquities. These were all dug up near the Lake 

 or on the site of the present building, where it seems in the time of 

 the Romans there was a temple to Jupiter. Among the coins I 

 noticed a gold piece with the head and superscription of Romulus. 

 Here are also a few good pictures, and I perceived in one of the 

 frames Landseer's fine engraving of the Dogs of St. Bernard, which 

 the Holy Fathers are not a little proud of. It is clear, however (as 

 they themselves observe), that the artist could never have been at the 

 convent, or if he had, he has sacrificed truth to effect. There are no 

 trees of any description on the mountain. The outline given of the 

 building in the distance is as unlike as may be, and the costume of 

 the monks is very unfaithful. 



At the hour of six you are received at supper by one of the monks, 

 who do the honours in rotation. I was fortunate enough to be pre'- 

 sent when this was the principal's office. There were, besides 

 myself, two American gentlemen, who had ascended that day from 

 the Italian side. The monk addressed himself attentively to each of 

 us in turn, and had about him so little of the recluse that he seemed 

 rather the courtier and man of the world. Every information we 

 could seek he was ready and even anxious to afford ; and as we 

 naturally desired that which was local, he willingly gave us every 

 particular of the establishment. The substance of the conversation 

 has been already laid before the reader. 



It is the custom of the monks to retire betimes to their cells ; the 

 time of going to rest is of course left optional to their guests, but it is 

 easy to see they would be more pleased by keeping early hours, 

 and no one is very anxious to keep watch after a toilsome day's 

 journey. 



In the morning those who can rise in time, may be much gratified 

 by attending service in chapel ; and it is considered a compliment to 

 do so: here, too, is a fine monument of General Desaix well worthy 



