501 



ANDALUSIAN SKETCHES. 

 No. I. THE MILLER OF ALMORAIMA. 



AT a distance of about ten miles from the land-gates of Gibraltar 

 is the forest of Almoraima. It covers a space of nearly forty square 

 miles, and is chiefly composed of cork trees,, although there are some 

 of the finest oaks I have ever seen, and which disabused me of a popu- 

 lar English prejudice that real oaks were only to be found in our 

 own country. Perched on the summit of a rugged mountain over- 

 hanging the forest, stands the fortified village of Castellar, better 

 known to the English as the " Castle of Andalusia/' and where the 

 scene is laid of an admired dramatic piece. Here resides the steward 

 of the owner of this fine property, the Marquis of Moscoso, who lives 

 in splendour at Madrid on the income derived from this and other 

 extensive estates. A sum, averaging yearly fifty thousand reals de 

 Vellon (two thousand five hundred dollars), is alone paid to him for 

 permission to drive large numbers of pigs to feed on the fallen acorns ; 

 and so excellent is this food for these animals, that the swine of Al- 

 moraima are celebrated in all parts of the south of Spain for the firm- 

 ness, whiteness, and delicious flavour of their flesh. But a more con- 

 siderable source of revenue arises from the bark of the cork trees, and 

 the enormons quantity of charcoal made. This gives employment 

 and support to a numerous population who occupy small villages of 

 huts, erected on spots cleared by the destruction of the trees. One 

 broad road through the centre of the wood leads to the town of Ximena ; 

 from this, branch off on either side, innumerable narrow paths which 

 conduct the curious explorer to small plains, some of them having 

 huts, but many without any sign of inhabitants. At a distance to the 

 left of the road, in a low swampy situation, is a convent which tal^es 

 its name from the forest. It is now inhabited by a few friars belong- 

 ing to the different religious houses of Cadiz and Seville who are sent 

 for various terms of from one to five years, as punishment for ecclesi- 

 astical offences ; a severe penalty indeed, as those who survive a third 

 years residence are, for the remainder of their lives tormented with 

 ague. About two miles south-west of the convent winds the Guada- 

 ranque, a mountain stream, on the left bank of which is a well beaten 

 track. Following this one morning, during a ramble on horseback, 

 I came to a rudely erected wooden hut and mill. I had often heard 

 mention made of the owner, and I resolved to take the present oppor- 

 tunity of endeavouring to become acquainted with him. I rode up 

 to the door, and was received by the loud noise of a pack of yelping 

 snarling dogs. These were soon silenced by the appearance of him I 

 sought, the miller Pepe Romero, a tall handsome man, of about 

 thirty-five years of age, swarthy complexion, large black eyes, and 

 an expression of countenance most particularly mild and humane. In 

 this instance the physiognomists the disciples of Lavater would 

 be sadly at fault. He was dressed in a black curly sheep-skin jacket, 



