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ANDALUSIAN SKETCHES. 

 No. II. THE STEAM-BOAT ON THE GUADALQUIVIR. 



FROM Gibraltar a very agreeable excursion to Cadiz and Seville is 

 constantly made by the officers of the garrison. I have visited these 

 interesting cities frequently, sometimes proceeding by sea, but 

 oftener on horseback. You have choice of two roads, one, over 

 the high range of mountains behind Algebras leading through the 

 magnificent passes of the Tro9ha and Ojen the other, winding by 

 the sea-shore at the foot of those heights, and conducting you to 

 Tarifa. The voyage and the land journies have each their particular 

 attraction. In a latine-sail boat, with the wind fair, as it always 

 must be, to stem the strong current which sets into the Mediterranean 

 from the Atlantic, the distance is run in about twelve hours. In 

 passing Cape Trafalgar, the boatmen usually steer close to the 

 shoals. The scenery is not uncommon, but I could never pass with 

 indifference the spot where Nelson achieved his last glorious triumph, 

 and met his enviable death. From the bold headland of the Cape, 

 numerous rocks above water, and others scarcely hidden below, run 

 out into the sea ; over these the waves break with a loud noise, and 

 the white spray, distinctly seen from afar, gives warning of danger to 

 the mariner. From Trafalgar you soon run into sight of Cadiz, the 

 first view of which would alone repay even a *' fresh- water sailor" 

 his painful malady and sufferings. Byron has immortalized its 

 beauties. 



By the road through the Passes, one of the wildest mountain- 

 tracks in Spain is seen, and additional excitement is created, by the 

 knowledge that it is the favourite haunt of banditti. Woe to the un- 

 wary traveller who, dressed as a citizen, shall venture alone, or even 

 in a small company, to journey this way ! It would be a miracle if 

 he escaped being stripped and plundered by the robbers. But it is 

 curious that in no instance has it occurred that these gentry have mo- 

 lested any British officer wearing his regimentals. The well-known 

 scarlet coat is passport and protection all over Spain a gratifying 

 token of recollection of the services of our army during the eventful 

 struggle of the Peninsular war. 



The route by the sea-side to Tarifa is highly picturesque, and it 

 must be a matter of deep interest to every military man to inspect 

 this apparently defenceless town, and call to mind the gallant con- 

 duct of the brave Skerrett and his small band, in retaining it against 

 the repeated attacks of a formidable French force, strongly posted on 

 the contiguous commanding ground. 



I selected the latter road in the tour I made during the early part 

 of the summer of 1827. Quitting Tarifa, I rode over the field of the 

 battle of Barossa, reached the town of Chiclana at night, and on the 

 following morning was at the Landport'Gate of Cadiz. Thirteen 

 thousand French troops under the Viscount Gudin, occupied at this 

 period the city and its vicinity. By the courtesy of a captain of the 



M. M. No. 102. 4K 



