518 Asmodeus and the Incognito. 



the most unfortunate of modern poets. Beyond Sorrento you see those 

 magnificent villas and residences projecting- on the shores. That is 

 Castello & Mare, a most delightful and fashionable place during the 

 summer season. A little further towards La Costa on the route to 

 Poestum, observe the half-burned Torre del Greco, and the venerable 

 disinterred ruins of Pompeii and Stabiae. The favourite, the splendid 

 palace of Portici, and all those luxuriant villas which follow, are 

 built on the site of ancient Herculaneum. Behind them you may 

 easily discern Mount Vesuvius, which is darkening the atmosphere 

 with the immense volumes of its greyish smoke. Santo Jorio, the 

 Granatiello, and La Maddalena are the next ornaments of the bay. 

 Now turn towards your left. Pozzuoli with its natural wonders and 

 its stupendous remains of antiquity, begins the other side of the bay. 

 Those evergreen hills, adorned with villas and palaces, are called 

 La Spiaggia di Posilipo, and that useful new road which reaches as 

 far as Chiaja, was projected and opened by the unfortunate Murat. 

 Those charming gardens on the shore are La Villa Reale, which is 

 almost united to the Chiatamone and Santa Lucia. Look beneath 

 you towards the same side. Those two highly cultivated islands are 

 Ischia and Procida, both celebrated for salubrity of climate, for 

 their medicinal springs and baths, and for their delicious wines. 

 Almost in the centre of this enchanting amphitheatre, you may now 

 admire the luxurious and lovely Parthenope, proud of its natural 

 charms and of its numerous works of art, guarded on the sea-side by 

 the Fortino del Carmine, Castel Nuovo, Castel dell' Uovo, and by 

 the fortifications of Posilipo. That strong and elevated fortress is 

 Sant* Elmo ; it commands the whole city on every direction, and 

 defends it against all internal popular commotions. The harbour, 

 as you see, is thinly stocked both with naval and commercial vessels 

 because industry, and commerce are not only paralysed, but almost 

 forbidden. The Mole was crammed with sailors, fishermen, and lazza- 

 roni ; and the Villa Reale and Strada Toledo were filled with fashion^- 

 able visitors of all nations, it being nearly two o'clock and a most beau- 

 tiful day. I am not surprised at the dolce far niente of the Neapo- 

 litans," said I to Asmodeus. " What ! what!" hastily answered 

 the devil with a frown ; their dolce far niente is forced upon them by 

 their ignorant and despotic government. As the same soil well cul- 

 tivated always produces the same fruits, and even improves with 

 time ; thus a nation would always engender the same people, if those 

 who direct its education were not selfish, superstitious, and slave- 

 mongers." "But where will you alight," enquired my Cicerone?" 

 I expressed my wish of visiting an old acquaintance of mine who 

 lived at Copodimonte, because he, being an instructed man who had 

 travelled over a great part of Europe, was more likely not to be 

 scandalised by my being in company with a devil. My request was 

 complied with, and we soon descended into his residence. 



When I presented myself, astonished at my unexpected visit, my 

 friend started from his seat, and said, " Perche vieni da me ? Vuoi 

 rovinarmi ? Va via." " Non temer, non temer," replied I, be- 

 cause nobody is acquainted with my being here." " Ma come sei 

 venuto," observed he." Col Diavolo," quoth I." " Corbezzoli ! 

 Bravo, bravissimo," resumed my friend with animation. " Ora 



