Letters of an African Traveller, 373 



opened itself before me which struggled hard with its approach- 

 ing fall. Monsieur Ruffin, French Consul, politely offered me 

 reception, and I deplore the loss he has since sustained in a 

 companion who was the model of the tender sex. 



My Lady Esther Stanhope, who, for so many years, has at- 

 tracted the attention of Asia and of Europe by the singular 

 manner of life she has adopted, is encamped one hour's dis- 

 tance from Sidon, in a small habitation called Ceruba ; and, in 

 order to render herself still more remarkable, insists upon her 

 will being obeyed, that no European shall approach her, even 

 for a moment. To blame her for it, would it not be an act of 

 intolerance ? 



Traversing that mountain which includes so many mountains, 

 and may properly be called a kingdom, and which I shall 

 call Libania, I hastened forward to Cilicia, and thence to Da- 

 mascus, the name of which imposes more than is due to it. 



In all the circuit of the Libanus, as well as in the Carmel, 

 I collected a thousand fruits and petrified testaceous substances, 

 the proof of a tremendous deluge. 



My intention of going from Damascus to Palmyra not suc- 

 ceeding at that time, 1 came to Balbek, where it appeared to 

 me as if Thebes were revived in the midst of Siria. 



An entire volume would be insufficient for the description of 

 the Temple of the Sun. 



Six columns arise amidst the marshes, each in height seventy- 

 one feet, and twenty- one feet eight inches circumference. 

 Three stones of granite occupy the space of one hundred and 

 seventy-five feet and a half, and another has sixty-nine feet of 

 length, twelve of breadth, and thirteen of thickness. You 

 alone, Sublime Genius ! can solve the problem whether it is 

 the work of common men, or of a race of beings superior to 

 our own. 



Re- ascending the Libanus I wished to smell its boasted 

 cedars, see Eden, the grottos of Canobin, and the horrible 

 cave of the great Egyptian Asceta. Oh, how the pure and 

 sweet life of the patriarchs flourishes here! Here is that 

 simplicity and peace that man in vain seeks amongst mankind. 



