Dr Boue on the Mode of Travelling in Turkey. 143 



one for travelling, and the eating on the road. What would 

 a naturalist do with a Tartar, always galloping, and travelling 

 at night. If you make a proper bargain, then, the Tartar is 

 like one of your own servants, and does what you wish, al- 

 though he never mixes with the servants, and dines alone, to 

 shew that he is greater than they. His title is Tartara, a di- 

 minutive of Tartaraga, or Mr Tartar. In several pachaliks 

 they may be hired at a lower rate, even for four or five francs 

 aday, especially when they are old, or out of service. 



The great firman has another advantage, in giving the right 

 to be put into private lodgings by the Turkish commanders in 

 villages, as well as in towns. Now in Turkey there exist a 

 great number of isolated inns, called han, or when in small 

 villages meyhane. In such inns the traveller generally finds 

 every possible comfort, if he can adapt himself to oriental cus- 

 tom, and is travelling during summer. They have large open 

 galleries, which may be used as drawing-room and sleeping- 

 room, and sometimes apartments clean enough to please even a 

 European, together with the necessary provisions. In the towns 

 and large villages, the inns are often crowded with people ; they 

 have no court-yard or garden, and even, sometimes, no large 

 gallery ; so that the traveller is obliged to eat and sleep in the 

 same room with others ; and it is, therefore, of great conse- 

 quence to get a private lodging. The traveller, on arriving, 

 either goes at once to the pacha or Turkish commander, or 

 sends his Tartar to him, and is immediately lodged in a house, 

 which generally belongs to a Christian. The Christians are 

 so much accustomed to this regulation, that many have a pait 

 of their residence allotted expressly for foreigners, to prevent 

 them seeing their families or wives. There, the traveller or- 

 ders what he likes, and pays, as at an inn, or if the people are 

 rich, gives the women a present of some pieces of money. Also 

 if he calls on the pacha as a mark of civility, the latter will 

 perhaps have the politeness to send him a dinner from his own 

 kitchen, or hay for the horses, or defray the expense of the 

 post-horses. At all events, he will order one of his inferior of- 

 ficers to conduct the foreigner wherever he chooses, and to 

 watch over his safety. In a very short time the whole city be- 

 comes aware that the stranger is a friend of the pacha, and, 



