144 Dr Boue on the Mode of Travelling in Turkey. 



far from annoying him, all treat him with every possible re- 

 spect. In getting a private lodging, one should take care that 

 the house be inhabited; for sometimes rich Christians, who 

 dislike such visits, go away from their houses, and leave the 

 traveller without any assistance for making the necessary ar- 

 rangements for dinner or supper. When this happens, a se- 

 cond call on the pacha, or his kiaya or alterego, or sometimes 

 even a civil word to the officer in attendance, will be sufficient 

 to attain the object. 



Lastly, as the great firman specifies the object of the travel- 

 ler, which is not the case with the teshere, it inspires the 

 Turks with perfect confidence. The foreigner goes to the pacha, 

 Musselim or Ayan commanding in the city, takes with him his 

 tartar, and presents his firman to the pacha, who receives it 

 with respect, or even kisses it, and reads it over in a low tone 

 of voice, after which comes the coffee, and the tschibuJc or pipe ; 

 and then is the time for the traveller to ask the pacha for what 

 he wants to forward his journey ; horses, guards, hay, barley, 

 or information about the road. Physical instruments, the col- 

 lecting of plants and minerals, and even drawing, are things 

 which are quite new to the Turks, as well as to the Christian 

 Turks, so that it is necessary to shew in the firman to the 

 people, the strongest proofs that one does nothing contrary to 

 the laws of the Sultan. We should also take care to hide 

 nothing from the people. Every experiment or piece of busi- 

 ness must be done openly, and one must always be ready to 

 answer questions. The plants and minerals should be for me- 

 dical purposes, and for discovering mines, the physical instru- 

 ments for determining the nature of the climate and the like. 

 No drawing should be made of a Turk when in presence of the 

 foreigner, without his express permission. The secluding one's- 

 self in a room or endeavouring to lock it up, only tends to ex- 

 cite suspicion. In Turkey, the traveller must not pay any at- 

 tention to people who come into his room from curiosity ; the 

 less he attends to them the sooner they will go away. Besides, 

 it is not the fashion to lock up doors as in Europe, and nobody 

 would dare to take the least thing belonging to a traveller, es- 

 pecially to one with a Tartar. Excepting in the great maritime 

 towns and the Greek towns, small robberies are unknown in 



