146 Dr Bouc on the Mode of Travelling in Turkey. 



son every traveller has some. The Servish, or Turkish ser- 

 vants are probably the best, but the traveller must always re- 

 member that those people are not accustomed to such activity 

 as our servants. They live far worse, but work less. The 

 usual monthly wages of a servant are 25, 30, or 40 francs ; if he 

 has his own horse he is paid 40 or 50 francs ; if not, the travel- 

 ler must get a horse for him, or hire post-horses. 



The first plan is preferable, as horses are always easily sold 

 for at least half-price ; and, in coming from the north, they 

 will sell in the south for their original price. A servant's 

 living may be estimated at less than one franc a-day. It is 

 essential that one of the servants should know something of 

 cookery ; and also all, or nearly all^ should speak the Turkish, 

 Servian, or Bulgarian languages. In visiting Greece, a Greek 

 servant becomes necessary. If a number of servants are taken, 

 I would recommend a German or Hungarian one, as, knowing 

 the mode of living of European gentlemen, he would be use- 

 ful in directing the others. Old German soldiers, accustomed 

 to a hard life, would also be found of service, but fashionable 

 servants should never be taken. If the traveller does not un- 

 derstand oriental languages he must have an interpreter, or, at 

 least, use one of his servants as such. Such men are easily to 

 be found at Constantinople, Bucharest, Belgrade, Salonichi, &c. 



In regard to the money to be taken, Austrian money, even 

 the paper-money, will do for the v;hole of Servia ; but in Tur- 

 key one loses on *J le Austrian money, and it is therefore ne- 

 Ccssary to take golden tkosars of the value of five francs, or the 

 large Turkish talaris, which is only half that value, or five 

 piastres. I need scarcely recommend prudence as regards car- 

 rying too much money, or shewing it openly. The best plan 

 is to have circular letters of credit on all the chief mercantile 

 towns ; and these should be written, not only in an European 

 language, but also in Greek and Servian. 



The traveller must have as little luggage as possible. The 

 first thing require is a bed, consisting simply of a strong and 

 thick carpet, or a Hungarian bunda (furred robe), or, what is 

 still better, a small mattress made of horse-hair, with a small 

 pillow and a woollen cover ; the whole capable of being rolled 

 up and put into a linen bag, after having been bound with 



