148 Dr Boue on the Mode of Travelling in Turkey. 



people often use, instead of candles, resinous wood, or even 

 kindled hay, which gives very little light. 



Europeans may find it easy to dispense with chairs, and to 

 employ instead of them their bed, a stone, a square piece of 

 Wallachian salt, or low Turkish stools ; but this is not the 

 case in regard to a table when one is obliged to write. I 

 should therefore recommend the traveller to take along with 

 him a small portable iron table, consisting of five iron rods, 

 four being fitted together, two by two, in the manner of an in- 

 clined cross, and the fifth serving to attach together both the 

 crosses. Such an apparatus is easily fitted to every Turkish 

 round table or sofra, which is never more than four or five 

 inches high. Some towels are also necessary, as well as a small 

 provision of tea, coffee, rice, sugar, raisins, and the like. In 

 this way the traveller can find something to eat everywhere, 

 and he can establish his bivouac wherever he likes. It is a good 

 precaution always to secure before departing the meat necessary 

 for the next dinner or supper, such as fowls, lamb, &c. then, by 

 sending it on with one of the servants, or the Tartar, to the 

 inn, so that he may reach it an hour or two before the rest of 

 the party, they enjoy the pleasure of finding their dinner ready, 

 and are not obliged to wait till the meat is sought for and 

 cooked. 



The Turks eat at eleven in the morning, and at six or seven 

 in the evening. The common meats are, all kinds of poultry, 

 lamb, either roasted or cooked as a ragout, or made into a soup 

 with rice ; sometimes it is roasted whole, with rice, hashed meat, 

 or liver, and red Spanish pepper in its inside ; the pUlaw, or 

 rice with butter, fat, or milk ; a kind of cake or tart of herbs 

 and eggs called pita, salad, raisins, grapes, excellent acidulous 

 milk ovjaghur, &c. Good milk is found nearly everywhere ; 

 but as the Turks take coffee without milk, you must always 

 order, the previous evening, the milk for the next morning's 

 breakfast, as otherwise it would be made into cheese orjaghur. 

 There are still various haches or ragouts prepared with butter, 

 jaghur, or Spanish pepper, haches of the leaves of plants, the 

 sarma, and many sweet dishes, such as eggs and milk mixed 

 together, tend fried ; the halva, a kind of glutinous food with 

 honey, stewed fruits, good comfits, and various fruits, amongst 



