1821.] Ascent to the Summit of Mont Blanc, '"^7 



, of much of that dazzUng whiteness which it usually wears at such 

 elevations. The thermometer at our resting place at three, p.m» 

 was 63°. It declined rapidly with the sun, and at half-past five 

 was 43°. The space where we lay is on the SW side of the rock, 

 and not more than 1 8 or 20 feet by 5 or 6. It has been made 

 somewhat level by the guides, who have piled loose stones on 

 the part towards the precipice as a protection. It was an 

 unpleasant bed, but my guides slept as soundly as if lodged in 

 the most comfortable mansion, and witliout being in any way 

 disturbed by the thunder of the avalanches which kept faUing, 

 at short intervals, chiefly in the direction of the Mer de Glace. 

 One of these men had lain 14, and another 11 times at the 

 Grand Mulct, in various attempts to reach the top of Mont 

 Blanc. 



At half-past one next day (the 11th), we began our journey 

 by moonlight. The ascent, though frequently steep, is not dan- 

 gerous, having few chasms ; so that we were enabled to advance 

 without waiting for day-break. We were linked together as 

 before, and made our way in the same order, the pauses of rest 

 being delightfully filled up in contemplating a spectacle, to me 

 so new and so magnificent. The sky at this elevation appeared 

 before dawn almost black, the moon and stars seeming, as it 

 were, sunk into the firmament. The snow-topped heights shone 

 as if coped with silver — a broad expanse of clouds, undulated, but 

 motionless and resplendent with the moon-beams, was stretched 

 out beneath us, in the midst of which rose the bare dark pinna- 

 cles of the mountains, hke rocks heaved up from the depths of 

 ocean. The silence and solitude of the scene aided its 

 effects, and induced a sensation which I might seek in vain for 

 language to depict. At four, we reached the Petit Plateau, 

 where the thermometer was 11°. The acclivity from hence to 

 the more extensive level called the Grand Plateau is between 30^ 

 and 35°, the snow quite hard, and without many irregularities. 

 As we advanced, the Dome du Goute appeared magnificently 

 above us ; its snows formed in many parts into prodigious quad- 

 rangular masses, placed with uniformity, and bearing some resem- 

 blance to embrasures. Behind, we had the nearer range of the 

 Savoy and Swiss mountains, brightening with the rising sun ; and, 

 far below, fringed with its exhalations, the long blue level of the 

 Leman Lake. 



At six, we reached the upper part of the Grand Plateau, whose 

 height above the sea is fixed by Saussure at 12,710 feet. Here 

 was the greatest degree of cold we experienced, the thermome- 

 ter being 5° All our provision was frozen, and the water we 

 brought with us converted into ice. The sun had just beamed 

 upon the place when we arrived, and during the hour we waited 

 to rest and breakfast, the quicksilver rose nearly 16°. Here I 

 first began to feel something of weariness and lassitude, accom*- 

 panied with a want of appetite, and distaste for wine ; and I 



