TO PRETORIA. 11 



Boers had invaded, and brave English soldiers sleep 

 around slain by the unerring bullets of plain Boer 

 farmers who were held too cheap. Both sides were 

 composed of brave men, but the rules of war observed 

 by our commanders were too little marked by the 

 subtlety of border warfare and too much by parade and 

 field-day observance. Two small trees, since planted by 

 his wife, mark the resting-place of the bold, genial, but 

 unfortunate General Colley. These trees stand alone, 

 the silence of the veld surrounds them ; by Colley's 

 side lies the body of a companion in arms, whilst 

 Majuba Hill at a short distance frowns above. It is a 

 bitter and a sad spot for Englishmen, and we feel re- 

 lieved as the night covers us while passing through 

 Laings Nek, and painful memories are left behind. 

 Volksrast and a small posting-house or hotel is reached 

 about 8 P.M., and now we have entered the Transvaal 

 and our luggage is searched. The search is thorough, 

 but courteous. Individuals who have lately had their 

 word accepted by the Inspectors that they carried no- 

 thing excisable have afterwards boasted at Johannes- 

 burg and Pretoria how they have " done " the Customs 

 and smuggled through their duty-paying effects ; hence 

 greater care is now taken and Englishmen have certainly 

 no reason to complain. We take dinner and go to bed 

 always two and sometimes four beds in a room ; but 

 at 2.30 A.M. we are again aroused, and by 3 A.M. we are 

 huddled up in the coach, for now the break is exchanged 

 for the real mail-coach with a team of ten horses. It 

 is perfectly dark and very cold, the windows are all 

 pulled up, and though we have three ladies who do 

 not object nine pipes are put in active work. One 

 passenger tried very hard to start a conversation, but 

 the darkness and the early hour were too depressing, 

 and silence and tobacco resumed their sway. The dawn 

 broke about 6 A.M., and a white frost was seen on the 

 veld ; but as the sun rose and the mists were dispelled 

 the view once more asserted its lonely grandeur, the 

 clear atmosphere became positively tonic, whilst a small 

 herd of Buck were seen about a mile away. These 



