of the Valley of the Setlej River. 45 



This day, (11th September,) Captain Gr. observes, termina- 

 ted their adventures amidst frost and desolation. They bade 

 farewell to the serenity of a Tartaric sky and its charms. 

 " Before us," he says, " we beheld dark clouds; we already 

 felt the moist warmth of the periodical rains, and wished our- 

 selves back among the Tartars, their arid country, and vast 

 solitudes." 



The rest of the journey follows the course of the Setlej, 

 until it emerges from the mountains into the plains of Hin- 

 du sth an. 



They now entered the lower Kunawar, and crossing, by a 

 sango, the Malgun, a rapid torrent passing to the Setlej, they 

 traversed a pine forest along a belt of highly cultivated land 

 interspersed with orchards and the richest vineyards : in the 

 midst of which is Chini, a large village, contiguous to which 

 are seven or eight others. The soil slopes gently to the 

 Setlej, and is loaded with fine crops. It is the most extensive 

 plain in lower Kunawar, and forms a striking contrast with 

 the heavy woods and rocky cliffs which overhang it. Just op- 

 posite are the huge Raldang peaks. 



Here, on both sides of the river, grapes attain the greatest 

 perfection. Some are dried on the tops of houses ; some made 

 into spirits ; the rest eaten ripe. Eighteen varieties, distin- 

 guished by separate names, derived from colour, shape, size, 

 and flavour, are cultivated in Kunawar. 



From Chini, the road assumes very rugged features ; many 

 rude balconies, flights of steps, and notched trees occur. The 

 soil is crowded with countless varieties of gay flowers and 

 many odoriferous plants. Cumin is plentiful, and forms an 

 article of export to the plains. 



The height of this spot is 10,200 feet. The rocks are gra- 

 nite and gneiss, forming a succession of precipices, with a so- 

 litary tree here and there. The path is narrow, and skirts 

 the brink of the abyss, looking down upon the Setlej, 4000 

 feet below. 



Rogi, where they halted, is 9100 feet above the level of the 

 sea. Towards the Setlej there are vineyards, and around the 

 village, apricots, peaches, and apples. 

 Thence they ascended to the height of 10,900 feet through a 



