37-4 Dr James Macaulay on the Physical Geography^ 



to discover any trace ; and after we had been successful, the 

 same search had to be continued, as there was perhaps only 

 the mark of a single hoof to direct us onward. While groping 

 our way through the mist in this manner, we came to a piece 

 of snow, the traces of our path across which, made us sure of 

 our direction, and allowed us to proceed more rapidly. At 

 length we reached a stone hut, which we had passed in the 

 morning, and which lies at the commencement of the Oampo 

 Grande. I shall never forget the howl of joy which the Por- 

 tuguese raised when they descried the house ; a joy in which 

 we participated, for if night had overtaken us, of which we had 

 been seriously apprehensive, our situation must have been peril- 

 ous. The hut, in its present state of decay, would have afford- 

 ed little protection during the night, but we were glad to find 

 shelter a while from the piercing wind ; and the remainder of 

 the contents of our basket gave us force enough to complete 

 our journey homeward with comparative comfort. It was late 

 in the evening before we arrived at our quarters at St Vin- 

 cente, the cheerful comforts of which we enjoyed all the more, 

 after the unexpectedly rough treatment we had met with from 

 the elements in the April of Madeira. 



But although, during the winter and spring, the weather may 

 be thus unsteady and inhospitable among the mountains, the 

 residents on the sea-coast almost invariably enjoy their uniform 

 excellence of climate. In returning, for example, to Funchal, 

 after an expedition of ten days, one of which was that which I 

 have just described as spent upon the Paul, and the weather 

 having been generally wet and stormy, and especially on the 

 last day, while recrossing the mountains from St Ann's, — as 

 we descended towards the coast, we gradually emerged from 

 the clouds and mist into a most beautiful evening, and were 

 surprised to learn that the weather had been fine ever since 

 our departure. Throughout the winter, very few days indeed 

 occur in which even the feeblest invalid need be confined to the 

 house. To those who have, in this country, been accustomed 

 to a climate so variable and inauspicious that a reference to 

 the weather is the most frequent theme of passing conversa- 

 tion, and a succession of really fine days is a matter of surprise 

 and common congratulation, it is. delightful to look forward. 



