Discovery of the Great Lake " NgamV of South Africa. 157 



harpoons attached to ropes. We greatly admired the frank, manly hearing 

 of these inland sailors. Many of them spoke Sitchuana fluently, and, while the 

 waggon went along the bank, I greatly enjoyed following the windings of the 

 river in one of their primitive craft, and visiting their little villages among 

 the reed. The banks are beautiful beyond any we had ever seen, except per- 

 haps some parts of the Clyde. They are covered, in general, with gigantic 

 trees, some of them bearing fruit, and quite new. Two of the Boabob variety 

 measured 70 to 76 feet in circumference. The higher we ascended the river, 

 the broader it became, until we often saw more than 100 yards of clear deep 

 water between the broad belt of reed which grows in the shallower parts. 

 The water was clear as crystal, and as we approached the point of junction 

 with other large rivers reported to exist in the North, it was quite soft and cold. 

 The fact that the Zonga is connected with large rivers coming from the north 

 awakens emotions in my mind, which make the discovery of the lake dwindle 

 out of sight. It opens the prospect of a highway, capable of being quickly 

 traversed by boats, to a large section of well-peopled territory. 



One remarkable feature in this river is its periodical rise and fall. It has 

 risen nearly three feet in height since our arrival, and this is the dry season. 

 That the rise is not caused by rains is evident from the water being so pure. 

 Its purity and softness increased as we ascended towards its junction with the 

 Tamunakle, from which, although connected with the lake, it derives the pre- 

 sent increased supply. The sharpness of the air caused an amazing keenness 

 of appetite, at an elevation of little more than 2000 feet above the level of the 

 sea (water boiled at 207^° thermometer), and the reports of the Bayeiye, that 

 the waters came from a mountainous region, suggested the conclusion that the 

 increase of the water, at the beginning and middle of the dry season, must be 

 derived from melting snow. 



All the rivers reported, to the north of this, have Bayeiye upon them, and 

 there are other tribes on their banks. To one of these, after visiting the Bata. 

 vana, and taking a peep at the broad part of the lake, we directed our course ; 

 but the Batavana chief managed to obstruct us, by keeping all the Bayeiye 

 near the ford on the opposite bank of the Zonga. African chiefs invariably 

 dislike to see strangers passing them to tribes beyond. Sebitoane, — the chief 

 who in former years saved the life of Sechele our chief, — lives about ten days 

 north-east of the Batavana. The latter sent a present as a token of gratitude. 

 This would have been a good introduction ; the knowledge of the language, 

 however, is the best we can have. I endeavoured to construct a raft, at a part 

 which was only fifty or sixty yards wide, but the wood, though sun-dried, was 

 so heavy it sunk immediately; another kind would not bear my weight, al- 

 though a considerable portion of my person was under water. I could easily 

 have swam across, and fain would have done it ; but, landing without clothes, 

 and then demanding of the Bakoba the loan of a boat, would scarcely be the 

 thing for a messenger of peace, even though no alligator met me in the passage. 

 These and other thoughts were revolving in ray mind as I stood in the water, — 

 for most sorely do I dislike to be beaten, — when my kind and generous friend 

 Mr Oswell, with whom alone the visit to Sebitoane was to be made, oflFered to 

 bring up a boat at his own expense from the Cape, which, after visiting the 

 chief, and coming round the north end of the lake, will become missionary pro- 

 perty. To him and our other companion Mr Murray, I feel greatly indebted, — 

 for the chief expense of the journey has been borne by them. They could not have 

 reached this point without my assistance ; but, for the aid they have rendered 

 in opening up this field, I feel greatly indebted ; and, should any public notice 

 be taken of this journey, I shall feel obliged to the directors if they express my 

 thankfulness. 



The Bayeiye or Bakoba listened to the statements made from the Divine 

 Word with great attention, and, if I am not mistaken, seemed to understand 

 the message of mercy delivered better than any people to whom I have 

 preached for the first time. They have invariably a great many charms in the 

 villages ; stated the name of God in their language (without the least hesita- 

 tion) to be " Oreeja ;" mentioned the name of the first man and woman, and 

 some traditionary statements respecting the fli3od. I shall not, however, take 

 these for certain, till I have more knowledge of their language. They are 



