Mathematical and Physical Science. 303 



inquiry of this kind, in regard to phenomena falling within 

 the perpetual observation of seagoing persons ; yet, at the 

 risk of stating what might be deemed common, I will ven- 

 ture to transcribe from my notes made with the phenomena 

 before me the leading characteristics which engaged my 

 attention. During the height of the gale (March 6th) the 

 form of the waves was less regular than after the wind had 

 for some time begun to subside. Though in many cases 

 when the sea was highest the succession* of the primary 

 waves was perfectly distinct, it was rather difficult to trace 

 an identical ridge for more than a quarter to a third of a 

 mile. The grand elevation in such case sometimes extended 

 by a straight ridge, or was sometimes bent as of a crescent 

 form, with the central mass of water higher than the rest, 

 and not unfrequently with two or three semi-elliptic mounds 

 in diminishing series, on either side of the highest peak. 

 These principal waves, too, it should be noted, were not con- 

 tinuously regular, but had embodied in their general mass 

 many minor, secondary, and inferior waves. Neither did the 

 great waves go very prevalently in long parallel series, like 

 those retarded by shallow water on approaching the shore, 

 but every now and then changed into a bent cuneiform crest 

 with breaking acuminating peaks. On the following morn- 

 ing (March 7), after a second stormy night, wind SSW. 

 (fine), we had a heavy and somewhat cross sea (from the 

 change of wind from WSW. to SSW.) But the almost un- 

 abated magnitude of the more westerly waves indicated a 

 continuance of the original wind at some distance astern of 

 us. The gale had moderated at daylight, and the weather 

 became fine ; but as the sea still kept high, its undulations 

 became more obvious and easily analyzed. At three in the 

 afternoon, when about a third part of the greater undula- 

 tions averaged about 24 feet from crest to hollow, in height, 

 these higher waves could be traced right and left as they 

 approached the ship to the extent of a quarter of a mile on 

 an average, more or less. Traced through their extent, the 

 ridge was an irregular roundbacked hill, precipitous often 

 on the leeward side of waters. The undulations, indeed, as 

 to primary waves, consisted mainly of these roundbacked 



