2'«» S. X» 103., Dec. 19. '57.] 



NOTES AND QUERIES. 



485 



LONDON, SATURDAY, DECEMBER 19. 1857. 



XADIES' DKESS. 



The following extracts from a work now for- 

 gotten will probably be thought amusing by such 

 of our female readers as may take an interest in 

 the history of dress, — " The Ladies' Dictionary ; 

 being a General Entertainment for the Fair Sex ; 

 a Work never attempted before in English. 8vo. 

 London, 1694. Price bound six shillings." 



" Apparel, or the Ladies^ Dressing Room. 



"Apparel and Ornaments are not only for shrouding 

 Nakedness and screening the pinching cold, but for set- 

 ting out the shape and proportion of the bodj', and ren- 

 dering the fabric of mortality more airy and charming ; 

 wherefore, Ladies, since there are such a number in the 

 varieties of this nature, and the French for the most 

 part have given them Names, as well as communicated 

 the Fashions to us, we have thought fit, for the better 

 informing those of your Sex, who have not leisure to fre- 

 quent the Court-Balls and Plays, to set down their names 

 as they are now in vogue, begging Pardon of the more 

 knowing of the Fair Sex for intruding into their Dressing 

 Rooms to fetch thence this Inventorj'. 



" An Attache is as much a% to say, vulgarly, tack'd 

 or fastened together, or one thing fastened to another. 



" Burgoigin is that part of the head-dress that covers 

 the hair, being the first part of the Dress. 



" A Berger is a little Lock, plain, with a pufi" turning up 

 like the ancient fashion used by Shepherdesses. 



" A Campaigne is a kind of a narrow Lace picked or 

 scalloped. 



" A Choux is the round Boss behind the head, resem- 

 bling a Cabbage, and the French accordingly so name it. 



" A Colberteen is a Lace resembling a Net-work, being 

 of the manufacture of Monsieur Colbert, a French States- 

 man. 



" A Collaret is a Kind of a Gorget that goes about the 

 Neck. 



" A Commode is a frame of Wire, two or three stories 

 high, fitted for the Head, covered with Tiffany or other 

 thin silks ; being now compleated into the whole Head- 

 dress. 



" A Confidant is a small Curl near the Ear, 



"A Cornet is the upper Pinner that dangles about the 

 cheeks, hanging down with flaps. 



" A Cretiecceur, by some called Heart-breaker, is the 

 curled lock at the Nape of the Neck, and generally there 

 are two of them. 



" A Cruch or Chruches are the smalHocks that dangle 

 on the forehead. 



" A Cupee is a pinner that hangs close to the head. 



" An Echelles is a stomacher laced or ribbanded in the 

 form of the steps of a Ladder, lately very much in re- 

 quest. 



"^ngageants are double Ruffles that fall over the 

 Wrists. 



" Alfavourites, a sort of modish locks, hang dangling 

 on the temples. 



" A Flandan is a kind of a Pinner joined with a Cornet. 



"A Font-Ange is a modish Top -Knot first worn by 

 Mademoiselle d'Fontange, one of the French King's 

 Misses, from whom it takes its name. 



" A Jardine is a single Pinner next the low-mark or 

 Burgoyn, 



« A pair of MartiaVs Gloves, so called from the French- 

 man's name, who pretends to make them better than 

 others. 



" A Mouchoir is only that which we vulgarly call a 

 Handkerchief. 



" A Mouche is a fly, or a black Patch. 



" A Murtnere is a black knot that unites and ties the 

 Curls of the Hair. 



" A Palatine is that which used to be called a Sable 

 Tippet, but that name is changed to one that is supposed 

 to be finer, because newer and d la mode de France. 



" A Passager is a curled Lock next the Temple, and 

 commonly two of them are used. 



" A Mont la Haut is a certain Wier that raises the 

 Head-dress by degrees or stories. 



" A Panache is any Tassel of Ribons very small, &c. 



" A Ragg is a quaint name thej' give to Point or Lace, 

 so that the Sempstresses who bring them to the Chambers 

 of the Ladies are called by them Rag Women. 



" A Rayonne is a Hood placed over the rest, pinned in 

 a Circle. 



" A Ruffle or Ruffles is that which we call a Cuff or 

 Cuffs. 



" A Settee is only a double Pinner. 



" A Sortie is a little Knot of small Ribbons ; it appears 

 between the Bonnet and Pinner. 



" A Spagnokt is a Gown with narrow Sleeves, and lead 

 in them to keep them down d la Spagnole. 



" A Sultane is one of those new-fashioned Gowns 

 trimmed with buttons and loops. 



"A Surtout is a Night-Hood which goes over and 

 covers the rest of the head geer. 



" A Toilet is a little cloth which Ladies use for what 

 purpose they think fit, and is by some corruptly called a 

 twy-light. 



" A Tour is an artificial dress of hair, first invented by 

 some Ladies that had lost their own hair and borrowed 

 of others to cover their shame ; but since it is brought 

 into a fashion. 



" An Asasm or Venze moy signifies a breast-knot, or 

 may serve for the two Leading strings that hang down 

 before to pull a Lady to her sweetheart. Thus much for 

 the Dress. 



" Appurtenances in Dressing, Sfc. 



" A Brancher or a hanging Candlestick, with branches 

 to see to undress by the Glass. 



" A Brassier, a moving Hearth made of Silver, or Ves- 

 sel to hold fire, to warm a Lady's shift, &c. 



"A Columbuck, a piece of Wood of a very pleasant 

 scent, used in their Chambers to keep out unwholesome 

 Aires. 



" A Cossoletis, a perfuming Pot or Censer. 



" A Coffrefort is a strong Box made of Olive or other 

 precious Wood, bound with gilded Ribs. 



"A Cosmetick or Cosmetieks are of divers kinds, and 

 highly in use for beautifying the face and hands. 



" A Crotchet is the hook whereto Ladies chain their 

 Watches, Seals, and other matter. 



"A Tilgrained is a Dressing-Box, a Basket, or what- 

 ever else is made of silver work in wier. 



" A Firmament, precious Stones, as Diamonds and the 

 like, which Ladies head their Pins withal, to make their 

 heads shine, and look in their Towers like stars. 



"AJappanian Work is anything japanned or varnished, 

 China polished, or the like. 



" A Sprunking Glass : this sprunking is a Dutch word, 

 the first as we hear of that language that ever came in 

 fashion with Ladies, so that they give us reason to be- 

 lieve they at last may tack about from the French to the 

 Dutch mode. This signifies pruning by a Pocket Glass, 

 or a Glass to sprucifie by. 



