AND THE JURA. 37 



ful, and also because it was characteristic of the range of mountains 

 among which it occurred. 



In rising to the highest part of the pass, of course all prospect of 

 the country beyond and to the west was cut oflF ; and, as I have al- 

 ready intimated, it was by turning occasionally to look upon the mid- 

 dle and east of Switzerland, that the beautiful and interesting views 

 were obtained. As soon, however, as the ridge had been passed, all 

 this to the east was immediately lost sight of, and the scenery was 

 that of the Jura, of its mountains and valleys, its heights clothed with 

 lofty pines, and its precipitous masses bare, naked, and wild, and 

 sternly defying all the efforts of vegetation. The change, conse- 

 quently, was as complete as could well be. From gazing on the smil- 

 ing valley and waving corn-fields, the eye rested on vast masses of 

 dark and gloomy forest scenery, only here and there enlivened by a 

 bold crag, or, at the most, by a few acres of pasture land. Such is 

 the general character of the greater part of the Jura ; but there is 

 always some striking feature, some commanding object, upon which 

 the eye of the traveller fastens with avidity, and which gives an 

 identity to any particular spot, and induces a feeling of attachment 

 and (if I may so say) friendliness to a view of wild nature not easily 

 forgotten in subsequent wanderings, and amid the contemplation of 

 scenery which would generally be considered more magnificent. 



In the view which presented itself on coming fairly within the 

 limits of the Jura range at this point, the principal object was a noble 

 isolated mountain to the right, rearing its lofty head in solitary gran- 

 deur to the clouds, and causing the hitherto direct path to wind and 

 wander about, and again ascend after a long descent, giving in its nu- 

 merous contortions a succession of noble prospects. At length, 

 at a sudden turn, the whole is lost sight of; and we emerge upon a 

 brokofi, hilly ground, completely different in character, and possess- 

 ing the features of desert rather than of mountain scenery. 



I did not long remain in this comparatively uninteresting track, 

 necessarily pursued by those travellers who trust not to their own 

 legs ; for having fallen in with some country people who were going 

 to one of the small villages on the Lac de Joux, I was initiated by 

 them into the mysteries of a cross road, if road, indeed, that might 

 be called which was marked only by an innumerable multitude of 

 loose stones and rocks, brought down by some torrent rushing with 

 uncontrollable violence, and tearing away everything in its resistless 

 course. Following, however, this primitive path scooped out by na- 

 ture's own hand, and occupying great part of a singular rocky gorge. 



