Ohservat'ions on some parts of European Turkey. 195 



desire for examining new countries, I always enjoyed good 

 health during my travels. Travellers in Turkey are now secure 

 and comfortable if they know and follow the customs of the 

 country, and if they are accompanied by a Tartar. The Sultan 

 has put an end to all highway robberies by means of the gibbet, 

 his Nisam or European army, and the stations of gendarmes. 

 Although some Haiduks still exist near the frontiers, they are 

 only rebels, called highway robbers by the Turks; and, although 

 the Turks dread them, the European traveller has nothing to 

 fear from them, as they expect much from the interest which 

 European Christians take in their situation. Indeed, people of 

 all ranks are well inclined towards strangers. In Albania, the 

 Christian, especially the Nemse, German or Austrian, finds 

 security in places where the Turks are in danger ; for the Myr- 

 dites are Catholics, and the Mahometan and Greek Albanians 

 hate the Turks. In Bosnia strangers are weU received, even 

 during the petty wars which too often devastate that country. 



The only exceptions to this rule are some countries where 

 only Asiatic Turks reside, and where there are Turks of the 

 good olden time with their green turbans ; as also a few Maho- 

 metan Albanian villages. Yet, even in these, the traveller is 

 not exposed to any annoyance, but only experiences indifference 

 and neglect. The former haughty Turkish appearance has now 

 disappeared very much, although scarcely any of the Turks, 

 except those employed in the civil and military departments, 

 have thought it worth while all at once to change their hand- 

 some dress and turban for our European fashions. Besides, 

 our dress requires household furniture, which does not exist in 

 Turkey. No Turk seems as yet to have adopted our dress- 

 coat. In places where Turks only reside, one still often finds 

 that noble hospitality of the middle ages which our inns have 

 banished from Europe. Turkey has undergone great reforms, 

 but it must yet submit to many other changes. May a stable, 

 just, and impartial government, soon procure for the inhabi- 

 tants that security of person and property which travellers at 

 present enjoy ; and may the plague, and the injurious distinc- 

 tions of Raja and Ghiaours, soon disappear from Turkey. By 

 results such as these, rather than by the creation of an Euro- 

 pean army, the Sultan's name would be rendered immortaL 



