108 Sketch of the Life of Professor Heeren. 



Greece, which announced itself in so many ways — and the 

 effect of a southern climate, have a magical effect upon him 

 who sees them for the first time. Our traveller was not insen- 

 sible to their beauties. He visited the ruins of Aquileia, and 

 went by land to Venice. The age of this decayed republic 

 impressed him the more, in comparison with Trieste, which 

 flourishes in youthful vigour. In the rich library of St Mark, 

 M. Heeren found nothing for the object of his inquiries. Win- 

 ter had commenced when he passed through Padua, Verona, 

 and Mantua, where he fell sick. Towards the end of the year 

 Jie betook himself to Florence. There the Gallery and Library 

 de Medicis afforded him ample occupation. But the remains 

 of his weakness, and the cold, against which, in Italy, they are 

 unable to protect themselves, prevented him from enjoying the 

 pleasures of Venice as much as he might have done. 



All his wishes tended towards Rome, which he entered on the 

 10th February 1786. His first impression did not equal his 

 expectation. The Piazza del Popolo and the Obehsk are little 

 calculated to excite enthusiasm. But Rome has a very peculiar 

 charm. The infinite diversities of her beauties unfolds itself 

 but gradually to the spectator; each day she becomes more 

 charming ; nowhere is the stranger more valued, and nowhere 

 does he so easily become naturalized. One may arrive at Rome 

 with indifference, but cannot leave it without emotion. Rome 

 was the principal object of M. Heeren's voyage : the Vati- 

 can possessed the most important manuscript of Stobaeus, and 

 a prolonged residence in that city could not but familiarize him 

 with the chief performances of ancient arts. He attached him- 

 self to the learned Zoega, who was his guide in every scientific 

 excursion, initiated him in the secrets of Archaeology, and in- 

 troduced him to Monsignor Borgia, since made cardinal. 



M. Heeren mentions Borgia as one of the few persons to 

 whom he owed most gratitude. While his erudition and mu- 

 seum contributed to instruct, his gentle disposition and affec- 

 tionate character attached the young student. The principal 

 object of Heeren''s sohcitude was Borgia's collection of an- 

 tiques at Velletri. Borgia was then secretary of the Propa- 

 ganda. At a later period, having sunk in adversity, and being 

 driven into exile, he found consolation in the sciences. He 



