Straxc used in the Tuscan Trade. 381 



Bhorter shape. It is an error to suppose, that hats are made from rye, 

 or any otiier grain in Tuscany. This marzolano straw is cultivated 

 for the sole purpose of being made into hats ; and is grown chiefly in 

 the vicinity of Florence, and on the hills on both sides of the valley of 

 the Arno. The growth of the straw is thus almost exclusively con- 

 fined to a limited part of the province of Tuscany. A few years ago, 

 the Pope, awai'e of the source of wealth which this manufacture pro- 

 duced in that quarter, attempted to introduce the culture of it into his 

 States. From the habits of the people, difference of soil or climate, or 

 from all these causes conjoined, the plan did not succeed ; and the 

 Grand Duke of Tuscany having now allowed the prepared straw to be 

 exported, the idea of cultivating it elsewhere seems to be altogether 

 abandoned. Tuscan women, in the mean time, have settled themselves 

 in various places, such as Vienna, Petersburgh, &c., where they carry 

 on the manufacture with straw grown in Tuscany. 



" The seed is sown on good ground, but not rich ; some sow it on 

 poorish land. In general, vines and olives bound the fields in which it 

 grows, or are planted at intervals in the interior of these fields, like or- 

 chards in this country. The practice in sowing flax is known to every 

 agi'iculturist ; and nearly the same holds in regard to the marzolann, 

 where the qualities especially to be obtained, are fineness, tenacity, and 

 toughness. 



" To obtain the first, it is sown so thick, that each blade touches 

 another. Manure is never made use of on the ground to be under 

 marzolana. The seed is sown on the ground in a flat state, and a per- 

 son must be taught the method of sowing it, which is done " under- 

 hand." The seed is then covered in, by hoeing the ground with a 

 draw-hoe, about three times the size of our common turnip-hoe. This 

 is done as near the first of March as the season will permit. From the 

 beginning to the middle of July (according to the season), it is ready, 

 which is known by the ear being fully shot, but before it is formed in- 

 to grain. The plant is then, if a good crop, eighteen inches in height. 

 The straw is not cut, but plucked by main force from the soil, and 

 then exposed for the purpose of bleaching, not in bundles, but scattered 

 about in meadows or gravel grounds, exposed to the eveping dew and 

 the midday sun, until it is perfectly yellow ; but constantly watched, to 

 gather it together, and put it under co^er at the least appearance of 

 rain, which would spoil it, and make it turn out completely speckled. 

 After it is sufficiently bleached, it is tied in bundles, and brought to the 

 manufactory, where children are employed to pluck the only part of the 

 straw which serves for plaiting, that is, what is comprised betwixt the 

 ear and the first joint in the stalk. If the weather is fine, in fifteen 

 days after the crop is pulled, it will be ready to work into plait, 

 " treccie," as it is called. The natives say, that the dew tends greatly 

 to whiten it ; but if any rain falls it is ruined. The manner of separat- 

 ing the top joints is by a smart jerk of the hand. These are made up 

 for sale, and the remainder thrown to the dunghill, for no animal will 

 eat it. 



" To obtain the whiteness so much prized, the straw is smoked with 

 sulphur previous to being worked ; the plait is also smoked, and, lastly, 

 the hat. About Sienna, the process is simply a little sulphur set on 



