THE ANTIQUARIAN. 215 



Elliot's light-horse, composed to a man of tailors. 

 Lest however our friends the habit-makers forget 

 their just measure in this loyal array, I may add, 

 that the person satirized by Butler, as Ralph the 

 tailor and Sir Hudibras' Squire, was one Pemble, 

 who had really plied that vocation, but becoming a 

 furious roundhead he was chosen one of the committee 

 of sequestrators. A desire to be strictly impartial 

 makes me glance at two other stains on the sartorial 

 escutcheon id genus : among the adherents of Perkin 

 Warbeck, whose claims however I am not now des- 

 canting on, occurs the name of Skelton, a tailor ; 

 and the rebelUon, which, 3. Edward VI., 1549, 

 broke out at Sampford Courtenay, was headed by 

 one of this calling hight Underbill. I shall dis- 

 miss my notice of the fraternity of the bodkin and 

 of St. John with observing, that 3. EHzabeth, 1561, 

 Emanual Lucar, then master of the company, found- 

 ed the seminary known as Merchant-tailors' School, 

 at a manor house called the Rose, and which had 

 belonged to the Duke of Buckingham. 



I have already mentioned the name of Samuel 

 Pepys, Esq., F. R. S., as connected by descent with 

 the subject of this disquisition : the antiquarian who 

 would inform himself on the costume» of our ances- 

 tors, in the time of Charles II., may find a rich treat 

 in Mr. Pepys' respect and veneration for fine attire. 



^^We cannot help thinking," says the reviewer of 

 his diary, ^^ that this singularly strong propensity 

 was derived by inheritance from his father's shop- 

 board, and that amidst all his grandeur and all his 

 wisdom, the clerk of the acts, for he held an impor- 

 tant situation in the navy-ofiice, could not, unhappily, 

 sink the tailor. The catalogue of coats, cloaks, 

 breeches, and stockings, entered at large in his 

 diary ; the minuteness of the description ; the petty 

 swelhng of the heart which could record with com- 

 placence every piece of gaudy finery he adopted, 

 savours strongly of the parvenu. In one place we 

 read, ^ put on my new lace-band, and so neat it is, 



