60 TRAVELS ON THE AMAZON", [November, 



intended for the conveyance of cattle, and therefore had no 

 particular accommodation for human passengers. There was 

 certainly a little cabin, with two berths just five feet long, but 

 not at all suitable for me (I am six feet two inches high), 

 so I preferred the hold. Our crew consisted of eight young 

 Tapuyas, fine active fellows, from fifteen to twenty years of age. 

 Each wore a tight-fitting pair of trousers and a very short shirt, so 

 that six inches of red skin appeared between the two garments. 

 The shrouds of the canoe consisted of the stay-ropes only, 

 without any rattlins or cross-steps, yet up these they would run 

 like monkeys, holding on with their toes. 



The island of Mexiana is about twenty-five miles long by 

 twelve broad, of a regular oval shape, and is situated exactly 

 on the equator. It is quite flat, and is all camflo, or open 

 ground, but dotted with scattered trees and bushes, and with 

 a little forest at the water's edge. It is celebrated for its birds, 

 alligators, and oncas, and is used as a cattle estate by the pro- 

 prietor. The alligators abound in a lake in the centre of the 

 island, where they are killed in great numbers for their fat, 

 which is made into oil. 



I was accompanied by Mr. Yates, a collector of Orchids, 

 who, after a few weeks' stay, not finding much variety of those 

 plants, returned to Para. On our arrival we were received by 

 Senhor Leonardo, a German, who is the overseer, to whom we 

 presented our letter from Mr. C. We were then shown the 

 rooms we were to occupy in the house, which is spacious and 

 has an upper story ; and having got our luggage on shore, we 

 soon made ourselves at home. Round the house are a good 

 many orange and mango trees, behind which is a row of 

 cottages, where reside the vaqueiros or herdsmen, who are 

 mostly Negroes and slaves j and beyond, as far as the eye can 

 reach, is the flat campo, dotted over with cattle and horses. 



On inquiring about the best localities for insects, birds, and 

 plants, we were rather alarmed by being told that oncas were 

 very numerous, even near the house, and that it w r as dangerous 

 to walk out alone or unarmed. We soon found, however, that 

 no one had been actually attacked by them j though they, 

 poor animals, are by no means unmolested, as numerous 

 handsome skins drying in the sun, and teeth and skulls lying 

 about, sufficiently proved. There is no doubt but they are 

 unpleasant animals to encounter, and their teeth and claws are 



